OverviewChimney Spire is an overlooked gem of high-quality granite and spectacular routes in Sequoia National Forest. Just miles from the Giant Sequoias and hordes of tourists, climbers can find routes ranging from 5.8+ to 5.12 in relative seclusion. The free-standing spire has impressively precarious-looking boulders at the summit and an easy approach.
The most popular route, "Duet" is a three-pitch 5.8+ crack climb which contrasts nicely with the spectacular vertical 500' climbs on the west and north faces. The first ascent of the Spire is assumed to have been by Fred Becky via the Regular Route aka the Becky Route (5.10b).
The ammo box on the summit holds a newly replaced register.
Besides Chimney Spire there is Chimney Rock, The Dinner Wall, The Crystal Wall, and a few other crags nearby. Check out the Sequoia Kings Canyon Guidebook for route info.
Getting thereFrom Hwy 198, aka "The Generals Highway" turn south onto road 14S29 (paved one-lane) about 2.5 miles west of Stony Creek Village (expensive gas available). The sign reads: "National Forest Organizational Camps, San Joaquin Far Horizons." It is 4 miles to the end of the road and the parking area. From there hike west up the steep forested hill. There is a use trail heading up roughly 50 yds. from the end of the pavement. The top of the hill known as "Camp Ridge" is about 500' elevation gain from the road. When you reach the ridge, Chimney Spire will be visible. Hike down the trail to the notch between Chimney Spire and Chimney Rock. The approach takes about 20-30 minutes from the car.
map of Sequoia Kings Cayon National Park.
Red tapeThis area is located outside the boundries of Sequoia National Park in the Giant Sequoia National Monument.(formerly Sequoia National Forest ) But you must pass through the National Park gates on Hwy 198 or 180 to get there so the N.P. entrance fee is required. Fee info.
Raptors nest in the area and it is subject to seasonal closure, to protect the nesting birds. Nesting season runs from January 1 to August 1.
2008 USFS News release: 2008 closure
When to climbThe climbing season is August, September and October.
The Perigrine Falcon Closure runs from January 1 through August 1, and the road (14S29) closes in November.
You could ski or hike in if the road is closed, it's 4 miles from the highway.
CampingExcellent undeveloped campsites are located near the parking area. No water or bathroom facilities are available so plan accordingly. No fees are required for camping, but if you plan on having a campfire, you will need a campfire permit, available from the visitor center at Grant Grove or Lodgepole or any ranger station in California. Developed campground is Stony Creek, about 3 miles west of road 14S29 on The Generals Hwy. Facilities available: 49 sites, public phone, groceries 1/2 mile, fee required.
Mountain conditionsIntellicast weather report for Sequoia National Park....
Related SP pages...The following areas are close to Chimney Spire....
Also check out
Sequoia NP (Lodgepole) - Logistical Center for more Sequoia climbing info.
Misc. information regarding Sequoia Kings Canyon National Parks.
Misc. information regarding Sequoia National Forest.
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