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Chimney Spire
Mountain/Rock

Chimney Spire

 
Chimney Spire

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.65580°N / 118.8656°W

Object Title: Chimney Spire

Elevation: 7650 ft / 2332 m

 

Page By: Rob

Created/Edited: Aug 17, 2004 / Apr 22, 2008

Object ID: 152962

Hits: 8480 

Page Score: 83.96%  - 18 Votes 

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Overview

Chimney Spire is an overlooked gem of high-quality granite and spectacular routes in Sequoia National Forest. Just miles from the Giant Sequoias and hordes of tourists, climbers can find routes ranging from 5.8+ to 5.12 in relative seclusion. The free-standing spire has impressively precarious-looking boulders at the summit and an easy approach.

The most popular route, "Duet" is a three-pitch 5.8+ crack climb which contrasts nicely with the spectacular vertical 500' climbs on the west and north faces. The first ascent of the Spire is assumed to have been by Fred Becky via the Regular Route aka the Becky Route (5.10b).

The ammo box on the summit holds a newly replaced register.

Besides Chimney Spire there is Chimney Rock, The Dinner Wall, The Crystal Wall, and a few other crags nearby. Check out the Sequoia Kings Canyon Guidebook for route info.

Getting there

From Hwy 198, aka "The Generals Highway" turn south onto road 14S29 (paved one-lane) about 2.5 miles west of Stony Creek Village (expensive gas available). The sign reads: "National Forest Organizational Camps, San Joaquin Far Horizons." It is 4 miles to the end of the road and the parking area. From there hike west up the steep forested hill. There is a use trail heading up roughly 50 yds. from the end of the pavement. The top of the hill known as "Camp Ridge" is about 500' elevation gain from the road. When you reach the ridge, Chimney Spire will be visible. Hike down the trail to the notch between Chimney Spire and Chimney Rock. The approach takes about 20-30 minutes from the car.
map of Sequoia Kings Cayon National Park.


Red tape

This area is located outside the boundries of Sequoia National Park in the Giant Sequoia National Monument.(formerly Sequoia National Forest ) But you must pass through the National Park gates on Hwy 198 or 180 to get there so the N.P. entrance fee is required. Fee info.

Raptors nest in the area and it is subject to seasonal closure, to protect the nesting birds. Nesting season runs from January 1 to August 1.

Access Fund

2008 USFS News release: 2008 closure

When to climb

The climbing season is August, September and October.

The Perigrine Falcon Closure runs from January 1 through August 1, and the road (14S29) closes in November.

You could ski or hike in if the road is closed, it's 4 miles from the highway.

Camping

Excellent undeveloped campsites are located near the parking area. No water or bathroom facilities are available so plan accordingly. No fees are required for camping, but if you plan on having a campfire, you will need a campfire permit, available from the visitor center at Grant Grove or Lodgepole or any ranger station in California. Developed campground is Stony Creek, about 3 miles west of road 14S29 on The Generals Hwy. Facilities available: 49 sites, public phone, groceries 1/2 mile, fee required.


Mountain conditions

Intellicast weather report for Sequoia National Park....



Related SP pages...

The following areas are close to Chimney Spire....
Buck Rock
Big Baldy
Little Baldy
Moro Rock


Also check out
Sequoia NP (Lodgepole) - Logistical Center
for more Sequoia climbing info.



External Links

  • National Park Service website.
    Misc. information regarding Sequoia Kings Canyon National Parks.
  • Forest Service website
    Misc. information regarding Sequoia National Forest.
  • Sierra Nevada Wild
    Your official government source for
    backcountry trip planning in Sierra Nevada National Parks, Forests, and Public Lands
  • Southern Sierra Climbers Association
    "A grass
    roots organization of locals dedicated to access, preservation, and education for everyone who
    wishes to learn about issues affecting our climbing past present and future in the Southern
    Sierra."

    Images

    North side Chimney Rock and...Climbers on Welcome to...The Monk is the formation...Climber atop The Monk.Rapping off of The Chartreuse...SP member Melbatoast belaying...Climbers on Duet (5.8+)
    Chimney Spire, lower East face.Chimney Spire, This is the...Chimney Spire, upper East face.SP member Melbatoast on the...Climbing the last slabby...East Face(Wall of  Early Morning fright)