Cima di Nasta m. 3108
Cima di Nasta is an elegant rocky peak situated in Maritime Alps, in a secluded position between Colletto della Forchetta and Colle di Nasta; it’s a stately gneiss peak overlooking the Remondino Hut with its impressive West Face and lined up along the same chain as Corno Stella. Cima di Nasta is formed by three main summits, lined up along a ridge running for one hundred meters; the highest summit is the Central one. From this summit a pronounced ridge starts heading toward SSW and giving rise to a detached peak - SW Uja di Nasta - while from the West summit another pronounced ridge starts heading towards NW and giving rise to an other detached peak – NW Uja di Nasta -. Cima di Nasta has a very easy “Normal Route”, starting from the Remondino Hut and reaching the magnificent Nasta Lake mt. 2800, one of the highest lakes in Maritime Alps. From the lake the route rises towards North, heading to a gully. An easy scramble is getting to the Central summit.
The most important face to climb is the shady West Face, a 250-300 meters high face rising in front of Remondino Hut; this face has a plenty of classic and modern routes rising on high quality gneiss. An obvious ridge, starting from the West summit, runs in the middle of West Face. Along this ridge is rising maybe the best classic route of Cima di Nasta, named Vernet Ridge, one of most frequently climbed routes in Maritime Alps. Cima di Nasta reputation is due to its interesting climbing routes, its fine milieu and its closeness to Remondino Hut.
HistoryThe first ascent to the top (1878, september, the twenty-seventh) was realized by the british D.W. Freshfield and his guide F. Devouassoud along North Side.
Getting ThereRoad access
From Turin (85 km.) or Genova (145 km.) follow the autoroute Torino-Savona as far as Cuneo exit. From Cuneo follow the road to Borgo San Dalmazzo, driving up on Valle Gesso and reaching Terme di Valdieri (35 km. from Cuneo). From here a narrow road, at least unpaved, leads up a lateral valley named Vallone della Casa; follow it as far as Pian della Casa, where the road ends (mt. 1743, parking). 6,5 km. from Terme di Valdieri.
Approach to Remondino Hut
From Pian della Casa (mt. 1743) – parking - a very good path (signed) rising along Assedras Valley leads to Franco Remondino Hut mt. 2430 (CAI - Italian Alpin Club Sez. Cuneo, 2 hours from the parking). Remondino Hut -a natural “belvedere” over the massif - is a strategic important hut for all the ascents to Cima Nasta, Argentera Normal Route and several treks inside Argentera and Nasta groups, offering meals and beds. Open from June to September.
Cima di Nasta Normal RoutesCima di Nasta has three Normal Routes and all of them are easy; the North one is the first climbers’route. This party in 1878 realized the peak's cross, rising along North Side and going down along SE Ridge. Another Normal Route is getting to the top rising along S gully (V. de Cessole – J.B and J. Plent in 1898).
North Side F, 180 mt. The route is starting from Colle di Nasta mt. 2939, situated between Cima di Nasta and Cima Paganini (1,30 hour from Remondino Hut).
SE Ridge PD, 160 mt. This route is starting from Colle della Forchetta mt. 2950 (1,30 hour from Remondino Hut).
S Gully F, 250 mt. The easier route and the most frequented (2 hours from Remondino Hut).
A modern route on Cima di Nasta W Face
"Mai dire io" - West face
Summit altitude: mt. 3108
TD inf., F6a, F5b+ obbl.
Length: 320 mt.
Equipped with spaced bolts; friends useful.
First ascent: Beppe Viberti and Bruno Ronzini in 1999 summer
Hut: Remondino Hut m. 2430 in upper Assedras Valley
A very fine modern route on excellent gneiss, requiring a bit of experience in placing running protections. The route is dedicated to Gabriele Beuchod.
"Mai dire io" report
From the hut rise along steep slopes towards West Face, heading to an obvious slabs’zone, situated in the left-hand sides of the face, near a groove-gully. The snow sometimes remains also in late summer. Starting point is W face highest point, nearby a zone of light slabs, cut by a thin crack, and 20 mt. on the left-hand side of “Lupo Alberto”, another easier modern route.
L1 – Climb the smooth sloping slabs to the upper ledge. 6a, 40 mt.
L2 – From the belay climb up straightly the steep wall, heads to left and climb another steep wall, then a slab and a little wall. 6a, 45 mt.
L3 – Climb straight a steep slab with good holds. 5b, 50 mt.
L4 – L5 Two pitches 45 mt. long, always straightly along another slab. 5b
L6 – Another slab is leading lightly towards left to a prominence. Belay after climbing the prominence. 5a, 30 mt.
L7 – Rise straightly, then slants to left heading towards some steep corners cutted by some cracks, climb the corners reaching a new slab and belay on a ledge near a little edge. 5b, 50 mt.
L8 – Climb easy slantways towards right, reaching a new belay. 3c, 40 mt.
L9 – Traverse right. 4a. 40 mt.
L10 – Climb a steep wall on the right-hand side of an obvious crack in the shape of a Z.
An easy ridge is leading to the summit. 3a, 100 mt. Summit cross.
Descent: along S Side Normal Route, reaching Nasta Lake and from here Remondino Hut. (1,15 hours from the summit to the hut).
W Face - Other routes (from left to right)
- Lupo Alberto - modern route F5a
- Vernet Ridge – classic route – IV UIAA
- Strapiombi di Nasta – modern route - F6b
Red tapeNo special restrictions in climbing. Remember that the peak is under the authority of Argentera Natural Park, established in 1980. Therefore some basic rules concerning environmental respect are essential. Free camping is not allowed and fires are forbidden. To bivouac is authorized only at more than 1 hour’s walk from Park's boundaries or from access roads. The whole fauna and flora are protected.
ClimateThe name of Maritime Alps range - inside which Cima di Nasta is situated - must not deceive you: only summer is a good time to climb Cima di Nasta W Face, a shady and cold environment.
"SAXIFRAGA FLORULENTA MORETTI", AN ENDEMIC RARITY.
Many rare and endemic species live in Maritime Alps, due to the group’s geographic position, under the influence of sea in Southern side and with a typical alpine climate in Northern side and in the highest zones, to the ancient glaciers’ action, rock variety and man’s activity.
No other place in alpine chain is so rich in animal and vegetable species.
You can find artic species as Ranunculus Glacialis and mediterranean species as Lavandula Angustifolia and Juniperus Phoenicea. But the most important endemic specie is Saxifraga Florulenta – Family Saxifragaceae, Genus Saxifraga - a plant which lives only in some particular environments at an altitude between 1800 and 3000 meters. Its English name is “The Ancient King”, while italian name is “Sassifraga dell’Argentera”; Clarence Bicknell, a famous British botanic, also called it “Maritime Alps’ glory”. This rare incredible plant can live till 50 years and its peculiarity is due to the fact that it flourishes only a time, just before dying!
“Le Alpi del mare" – Scalate moderne nei massicci dell’Argentera e del Mongioie” by Flaviano Bessone – Idee Verticali Edizioni