Colonial Peak (WA) (Whatcom)

Overview

Colonial Peak is the highest and most visible (and most photographed) of the peaks belonging to the Snowfield Range that can be seen from the Diablo Lake Overlook on Highway 20. At 7,771 ft, it rises sharply above Thunder Arm and Diablo Lake with over 6,500 ft of elevation gain in under 3 miles. While the main route to the summit isn't as technical as some of its southern neighbors, there are no easy approaches, and glacier gear and scrambling experience is required for this peak.

Many climbers opt to spend a weekend on the peak, to climb its other prominent subsidiary peaks, Neve Peak, Paul Bunyan's Stump, Pinnacle Peak, and Pyramid Peak, or trek onto the Neve Glacier to climb Snowfield Peak and its neighbors.

Getting There

The most common route is via the Pyramid Lake/ Pyramid Peak Climbers Trail, which starts on Highway 20 6.5 miles east of Newhalem. The trail begins at 1,150 ft at the Pyramid Lake Trail, and ascends gently over 2 miles to Pyramid Lake.

Route

Start via Pyramid Peak Route, until at upper edge of Colonial Glacier.

Per Beckey Guide Vol 2:

West Ridge: Traverse SE up glacier to steeper slopes, then ascend into the wide snow finger that leads to the summit ridge. Ascend the finger for half its length, then make a short loose rock scramble left. Traverse talus and the high firnfield to the notch just W of the summit pyramid. Gain the top via the rock ridge. Rating: unverified.

Variation: Keep N and below the snow finger and cross to the snowfield by talus slope just below a band of cliff. Ascend steep snow 150 ft and then gentler slopes to the base of summit rocks.

Red Tape

As this is in the North Cascades National Park, you will need a camping permit, and a Northwest Forest Pass to park at the trailhead. Parties are limited to a maximum of 6 people.

When to Climb

As long as Highway 20 is open to Diablo, this peak can be climbed year-round, although when you choose to climb is up to your preference. For summer ascents, July to September is when the trail is easiest to follow, and the weather is most cooperative. Winter will lessen crevasse dangers, but increase avalanche and route-finding issues lower down.

Camping

There are flat spaces and prepared sites in the Colonial Glacier Basin, and at the Colonial-Neve Col.

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