Construction Page : Custom Object : SummitPost

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Overview Test

Though ease of access and simple routefinding make Avalanche Gulch far and away the most popular route year-round on Mount Shasta, the opposite side of the peak is distinguished for hosting the Hotlum-Bolam Ridge. The Hotlum-Bolam Ridge is a great intermediate route and is arguably the most popular and frequented alternative to Avalanche Gulch during the summer months.

Although most of the route is no more technical than that observed on the south side routes, late in the season open crevasses nearby on the Hotlum Glacier and possible icy sections en route to The Step dictate a level of awareness and experience somewhat higher than that held by some beginner visitors to Mount Shasta. The route generally climbs snowfields along with some rock as the summit is approached and has options for easier or more challenging terrain as time, experience, and individual preferences warrant. Excellent and scenic camping options are available, and several features will be seen with names like The Rabbit Ears, The Sharktooth, and even the aforementioned crevasses on the nearby Hotlum Glacier. The views are refreshing and the ridge offers a nice change and new experience for those climbers who may have already made previous visits elsewhere on Mount Shasta.

Getting There

Route Map

The Approach from North Gate

The most logical approach to the Hotlum-Bolam Ridge is from the North Gate Trailhead. The drive in to North Gate is a bit rough and more easily (and quickly) done by high clearance vehicles though this is far from a requirement and cars are frequently seen at the trailhead.

If it is early in the season check the USFS Mount Shasta Climbing Advisory for information on trailhead access or call the Mount Shasta Ranger Station directly. The road to the trailhead is not open in winter.

North Gate (41.46840° N, 122.17401° W)
From Interstate 5 in Weed head northeast on Highway 97 for 15 miles until reaching Military Pass Road. Follow Military Pass Road for 3.6 miles to a junction with Andesite Logging Road and bear right as indicated by road signs. Continue on Andesite Logging Road for approximately five miles passing several forks and junctions en route to the trailhead. The drive is well signed from Military Pass Road and drivers should have no issue navigating the route (other than the rough terrain and possible bump of the oil pan).

Approach

Above the Rabbit Ears

North Gate (Aproximately 5 miles and 7200 feet elevation gain one way)

From the North Gate Trailhead follow the trail as it heads up to the open area south of the North Gate Plug at 8500 feet (even when snow covers the path it is generally easy to follow as you keep Mount Shasta ahead of you and the North Gate plugs to your right).

From the flat area at 8500 feet there are numerous route options in the immediate vicinity as the ridge is approached or reasonable camp locations sought out. No path is particularly better or worse than the other. See the Camp Locations section for a few possibilities on where to set up for a night.

Route Description

The Hotlum-Bolam Ridge Route

The Hotlum-Bolam Ridge is a great route for intermediate climbers in the early to mid season, but later in the season it can get more challenging as snow in some of the gullies becomes hard or icy.

Depending on your camp location ascend either directly up (if camping a bit east of the North Gate Plug) or climb diagonally to the east to reach the first snow ramp above the Hotlum Glacier. The ramp continues diagonally up and to the right above the lower rocks on the ridge. This first chute often forms icy patches within it later in the season, but they can usually be avoided. Also note the location of the crevasse on the Hotlum Glacier below this chute (if open) so that it does not cause problems on the return.

Once at the top of the first chute (named ‘The Step’) at 13000 feet there are a couple of options to reach the summit. Often climbers continue directly up a second snowfield until the ridge becomes rockier near two prominent and obvious rock towers called the Rabbit Ears. From below the Rabbit Ears most climbers traverse right a bit onto gentler terrain above the Bolam Glacier and make the climb up to the northern end of the summit pinnacle. Taking this option bypasses The Sharktooth (another prominent blade of rock at about 13,800 feet) on the left shortly before reaching the summit area.

Alternatively (and less frequently) climbers can stick more properly to the Hotlum-Bolam ridge from below the Rabbit Ears all the way to the summit by following class 2 rock on the ridge. Some rock of at least class 3 will normally be encountered depending on route finding and current conditions.

Descend via the climbing route. On the way down remember where the large crevasse is below the first chute. If glissading below The Step, stop and move to your left (climbers right) near the bottom often enough to be sure you are clear of the crevasse. The crevasse can be difficult to see from above.

Current Conditions

Current NOAA / National Weather Service Forecast

Camping

Be serious...

Etymology

The Hotlum-Bolam ridge is named for the Hotlum and Bolam Glaciers running on either side of the route. These glaciers, along with a few others, were named by western explorer Major John Wesley Powell.

“Powell was a brilliant scholar who collected over two dozen dictionaries of Native American languages and dialects. During 1879 he came to northern California to study the Wintun tribe, and climbed Mt. Shasta on November 1, 1879. Afterward, he named Shasta’s four other major glaciers with Wintun words in honor of the tribe: Hotlum (‘steep’), Bolam (‘big’ or ‘great’), Konwakiton (‘muddy’), and Wintun (the tribal name). The names were inscribed in official records maintained by the US Geographic Board in 1897.” – Andy Selters, Michael Zanger, The Mt. Shasta Book: A Guide to Hiking, Climbing, Skiing, and Exploring the Mountain and Surrounding Area (2006)

Sunrise East of the Hotlum-Bolam Ridge

Pics

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Bolam Glacier Camp
Camp at about 9600 feet directly beneath the Bolam Glacier on Mount Shasta, with the Whitney-Bolam Ridge rising to the right (trust me… it’s all there). Weather had the mountain completely socked in on our approach making us nervous about the climb, but we had splendid conditions the following day.
October 2012

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Bolam Bergshrund
My partner poking about before we cross the Bolam Glacier bergshrund in October 2012

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Shastina from Bolam
Looking west to Shastina and the Whitney-Bolam Ridge from above the Bolam bergschrund in October 2012

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Shasta in October
Fantastic conditions on the summit following a climb of the Bolam Glacier in October 2012. Mount Lassen is visible on the horizon to the left.

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Descending Shasta’s Summit
My partner begins the descent from Shasta’s summit following our trip up Bolam Glacier in October 2012.

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Bolam Glacier
Features on the Bolam Glacier seen from the Whitney-Bolam Ridge in October 2012

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Whitney-Bolam Ridge
Looking up the Whitney-Bolam Ridge with the Bolam bergshrund on the right in October 2012. To ascend the ridge simply follow the crest to the saddle visible above and reach the sulfur vents below the summit pinnacle.

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Descending Whitney-Bolam Ridge
My partner descending Whitney-Bolam Ridge, right at the edge of the Bolam Glacier. The Rabbit Ears are visible near the summit on the far left.
October 2012

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Whitney-Bolam Descent
Somewhere between 10500 and 11000 feet as we descended the Whitney-Bolam Ridge in October 2012. Waves of ice are visible here at the edge of the Bolam Glacier.

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Camp from Whitney-Bolam Ridge
Looking down at camp (orange) from near the bottom of Whitney-Bolam Ridge in October 2012

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Camp below Whitney-Bolam Ridge
Camp at 9600 feet on the northwest side of Mount Shasta with the Whitney-Bolam Ridge and the summit rising in the background.
October 2012

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Shasta from the Northwest
Mount Shasta and Shastina looked spectacular from this less frequented view as we approached camp below Bolam Glacier. The brush here is a bit annoying without great routefinding but not too problematic.
October 2012

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Shasta and the Bolam Glacier
One of my favorite views of Mount Shasta, seen from the northwest as we headed to the Bolam Glacier. The Whitney-Bolam Ridge follows the right skyline.
October 2012