OverviewBeautiful and varied climbing on mostly slabs and cracks define this route on the Pilastro Di Rozes of the Tofana di Rozes. For the 500 meter long route one needs 5 to 6 hours. It is slightly easier than the South Face Route, with which it joins near the top. The view into the depths takes one's breath away and the panorama onto Sopranis, Pelmo, Cinque Torri, etc., is one of a kind!
Most of the 12 to 14 pitches are not harder than UIAA V. Only the 7th and 8th pitches are somewhat harder (VI- and VI). After the traverse, the climbing is very pleasurable in good rock. Unfortunately the last 3 pitches are almost just a walk.
The climb was first done by Constantini and Ghenina in 1946.
Getting ThereFrom the Dibona Hut on a beautiful trail (#442) to the foot of the Pilastro wall. A slight rising traverse on a ledge to the left reaches the start. 1 hour form the hut.
Route DescriptionThe first 7 pitches run right of the arête. One then climbs left of the arête to the gully after a traverse that is not to be underestimated. From the gully, after climbing over a bulge, the route is mostly scrambling and meets the South Face route. The final summit gully may have snow.
See also this Route Description The route sketch below is from that page.
The descent first ascends slightly in northerly direction and then follows a marked route to the exit of the regular route. From there a good trail leads easily to the Giussani Hut. A steep trail (#403) leads back to the Dibona Hut.
Essential GearThe route has fixed pitons, some of which are old. It is advised to take a hammer to reset loose pitons. Several slings and Freinds to be taken to supplement the fixed protection.
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