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Ferrata Lipella
Route

Ferrata Lipella

 
Ferrata Lipella

Page Type: Route

Location: Dolomites, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.52600°N / 12.03070°E

Object Title: Ferrata Lipella

Route Type: Via Ferrata

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: a long, medium hard ferratta

Route Quality: 
 - 24 Votes
 

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Dec 27, 2002 / Sep 14, 2013

Object ID: 157536

Hits: 17667 

Page Score: 89.77%  - 30 Votes 

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Intro

 
Tofana di Rozes map
Click here to see on-line version!
 
Tofana di Rozes
arrazubi - Above Val Travenanzes

Ferrata Lipella can certainly be ranked high on top of the most prestigeous ferratas of Dolomites. It is variety which is most characteristic for it. The entry through a long World War I tunnel, a very high W wall, which is climbed ledge by ledge, finally a short summit ridge. All with a great, most wild mountain scenery around.

Approach

You start the tour in Rif. A. Dibona (2030 m), which can be reached by a narrow road from the main road Cortina d'Ampezzo - Falzarego Pass.

Route Description

 
When you leave the tunnel
julesblaid - near Castelletto
 
Exposure
Velebit - in Ferrata Lipella

From Rif. Dibona take a marked path No. 403 (towards Forcella Fontananegra), but after a few minutes turn left (westwards) by a route No. 442 (good marked - Grotta della Tofana and Ferrata Lipella). Over the scree the path soon reaches the base of the monumental south wall and the path No. 404, coming from the right. Now you continue by No. 404 westwards, always beneath the south wall (anyway you have no other choice). 1h till here.

Reaching the base of the Castelletto (a small south-west tower of Tofana di Rozes) you enter the mountain - by a tunnel, made during the World War I. Here you need a torch, because the tunnel is 500 m long and in some places it is going steep upwards. You reach a daylight again on the ridge of Castelletto (height: 2620 m) and now you must descend a little to the real beginn of the Ferrata Lipella (marked by a table). From this point it is still possible to escape down on Forcella Coi del Bos (or ascend by that approach up, thus avoiding the tunnel).

The path now crosses the whole west wall of Tofana di Rozes by sometimes narrow, sometimes comfortable bands. Unfortunately you don't gain much of altitude, but the scenery is great. You are in the middle of the monumental wall, on the other side of Val Travenanzes you can admire the walls of the South Fanes Spitze (2980 m) and you must also keep eyes on the path and take care of other climbers' safety. So you arrive to the very northern part of the west face - to the towers of Tre Dita (Drei Fingern, Three Fingers, 2694 m).

By Tre Dita you have the option of leaving vertical walls. But if you wish to reach the summit this option would take you to the middle of the north-east slope and only there you could again turn upwards. And you probably don't wish to go around the whole mountain to reach the top! That's why it is recommended to return into the west wall and continue towards the top.

So, the Ferrata Lipella turns at Tre Dita sharply to the right, goes over few bands to a small amphytheater and than steeply, in some cases almost vertically up towards the north-west ridge. Now you must be already tired a bit, pegs and cables are often wet there and you must be very careful not to make a deadly mistake. The climb ends on the altitude of 3027 m, where you reach the NW ridge. The ascent to the top is not hard any more, there is only scree and may be in some places snow rests.

For the whole ascent you will need about 5 hours, only the ferrata will take you 4 hours or more. Of course it is best to descend by the north slope and over the Forcella Fontananegra to the Dibona hut.

Essential Gear

The ferrata gear and good shoes. If it is early summer a snow axe is necessary for the descent over the north slope. And don't forget the torch for the tunnel - you will never get through if you forget it.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images