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Cotopaxi Climber's Log

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nesnegrojRoute: Normal
Date Climbed: Sep 21, 2003

nesnegroj

Had to abandon because off bad stomach
Posted May 16, 2006 6:44 pm

TMstandard route

TM

Great route, interesting but moderate. Fun climbing, beautiful place. Stay at Tambopaxi before and after, it's cush (featherbeds, wine list, fresh trout dinners), well-priced and run by great folks.
Posted Apr 10, 2006 5:34 am

emilieStandard Route
Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2006

emilie

Bad storm during first attempt - high winds, poor visibility, so-so snow conditions, and we were covered in ice. Turned around at 18,300ft.
Came back three days later for a second attempt but only made it to 17,800ft - too beat from the first attempt.
Posted Mar 1, 2006 1:26 am

LigaNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2006

Liga

Easy climb, great views. We had increadible night with clear sky and billions of stars which was followed by amazing sunrise on the top. Awesome.
Posted Feb 27, 2006 3:31 pm

KCWANormal Route  Sucess!

KCWA

Great climb, perfect weather. First time to high altitude.
Posted Feb 17, 2006 6:28 pm

colintRoute Climbed: normal Date Climbed: jan 17 2006  Sucess!

colint

The weather was bad- low clouds, high winds. Out of 30 or so leaving the refugio only 6 summitted. Guides with Moggely are by far the most professional on the mountain, some others take up poorly acclimatized assholes and hurry, cross ropes, start late etc. Really an exceptional climb when the weather keeps away the crowds!
Posted Jan 17, 2006 10:14 pm

forjanRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 7, 2006  Sucess!

forjan

Our 1st attempt on Cotopaxi was on January 5, 2006. DeeDee and I woke up at 12:15am. We started to climb at 1:30am. Socked in clouds; poor visibility; 1.5 feet of new snow overnight meant avalanche risk. We decided to turn around at 5255 meters (17,241 feet) at 4:04am. Back at the Jose Ribas hut at 4:56am. Went to sleep from 5:00am 'til 9:00am. Defeated by conditions, we went down to Hosteria La Estacion to rest overnight.



Our 2nd attempt on Cotopaxi was on January 7, 2006. Woke up at midnight. Started climbing exactly at 1:00am. Got to the ice wall near the Yanasacha before dawn. Waited for daylight to tackle the crux of the route (a small 50 degree step) by the bergshrund. Summited at 7:40am. Stayed 15 minutes at Cotopaxi's summit. Back at the hut by 9:53am (~ 9 hrs roundtrip). Then, we drove down to Aloasi for much-needed rest at Hosteria La Estacion.

Posted Jan 13, 2006 3:35 pm

climberbenRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 1 November 2000  Sucess!

climberben

Made a quick ascent and descent of the mountain in beautiful weather. The climb took 6 hours round trip from the refugio. Beautiful sunrise on the summit!
Posted Dec 26, 2005 4:49 am

YetiBauerRoute Climbed: Normal Route North Date Climbed: Feburary 2005  Sucess!

YetiBauer

The lower glacier was dry with no snow cover. On descent we experienced a "solar oven" trapped in a low cloud with the brilliant sun above the sun light was double reflected and it warmed up beyond belief!

Tambo Paxi (the lower hut) is a great place to acclimatize
Posted Dec 8, 2005 9:36 pm

ArioRoute Climbed: Normal Route (North) Date Climbed: June 10th, 2005  Sucess!

Ario

Alpine grade PD (50 degrees, + 1100m), free climb following a Tyrolean party, icy rain during the night and good weather in the morning.

When we reached back Refugio Jose Ribas at 10:30 am, we were still ice-covered due to the night icy-rain !

Posted Nov 9, 2005 4:52 am

edlRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: Nov. 1998
Turned around at 19,000 due to partners illness. Still a great time on a fantastic mountain.
Posted Sep 29, 2005 6:28 pm

radsonRoute Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 15 June 2005  Sucess!

radson

A wonderful sustained climb in beautiful weather. As per photos cotopaxi turned pink beneath our plastics at about 5600m. We summited around 7am with no wind and looking at Chimbo and Antisana. Good snow meant we were down in just under 2 hours.
Posted Sep 18, 2005 5:21 am

Guillaume.CeyracRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: August 2001

Guillaume.Ceyrac

Went there with PO and Benoît, also from France. After a freezing night in the refugio, we started to climb at 3 O clock and had to stop after 3 hours because of a heavy snow storm. We did not have enough time to wait a while in order to attempt the summit on more time... I'll have to get back there !
Posted Aug 24, 2005 2:47 am

C.WagnerRoute Climbed: Normal route from J Rivas hut Date Climbed: July 16, 2005  Sucess!
Strated at 0100

Summited at 0630

Nice weather, but windy

Clear view of all other equatorian summits

Some fresh snow just below the summit
Posted Aug 22, 2005 1:46 pm

esugiRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: July 30, 2005  Sucess!

esugi

Was turned back 200 m below the summit due to rediculously strong winds. Consistant 40-50 mph but gusting to probably 70mph. Very difficult to stand much less climb into it.



Posted Aug 20, 2005 3:51 pm

mpaRoute Climbed: Normal  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2005

mpa

After a very short night of about 3 hours, we started at 0:30 in the night. The ascent was very steep so we needed about 8 hours to make it to the summit, but we had some really nice views on the lights of Quito in the night. We reached the top at about 8:30 in the morning.
Posted Aug 11, 2005 5:26 am

TNclimberRoute Climbed: NORMAL Date Climbed: JULY 25 2005  Sucess!
Very tough climb in terms of steepness. use a good guide from a reputable company that is asegium certified.
Posted Jul 26, 2005 2:35 pm

CautiousRoute Climbed: Normal from J Rivas Hut Date Climbed: January 2005  Sucess!

Cautious

Nice sustained climb. Started at 0100. Summited just before sunrise around 6. Very cold on top.
Posted Jun 24, 2005 9:31 am

andre hangaardRoute Climbed: Standard route from J. Rivas hut Date Climbed: 06 May 2005

andre hangaard

We started at 01:30. Although sky full of stars, light thunder storms over the djungle in the east.

Too warm in the air. The previous days heavy snowfall made the fresh snow a problem. Risk of avalanches.

We aborted summit attempt at 5.650m.

Need to return in a dry season!

Arranger: Safari Tours! highly recommended!

Posted May 26, 2005 5:31 pm

spiffmoRoute Climbed: Normal Route - up and to the right of Yanasacha Date Climbed: March 19, 2005  Sucess!
Left Quito at 8 pm, drove in the back way (didn't have to pay park entrance!), hiked straight from the trailhead to the summit without "sleeping" at the refugio. The fog broke as we passed Yanasacha and left us with stunning views from the summit. -5 C. sustained temps, no wind. Summited just before 8:00 am. Well-consolidated snow softened as we descended, but not dangerously.
Posted May 17, 2005 5:49 pm

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