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Cotopaxi Climber's Log

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Tom FralichRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: December 22, 2003  Sucess!

Tom Fralich

Climbed to the summit in 5 hours from the hut with Paul Hudson, arriving on top at 6:30AM. Perfect summit day - clear skies and not too cold. All of the other volcanoes were visible from the summit. The glacier was very complex and would be difficult to navigate with no track. The final 300m to the summit were a beast. Strong smell of sulfur near the summit. Definitely a beautiful mountain.
Posted Dec 22, 2003 8:02 pm

RockhopperRoute Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: october 13-14, 2003  Sucess!


Started to climb at 1.00 am. After climbing Misti and Chachani in Peru, I was well acclimatised. Despite the fact that I had no altitude problems, I had to slow down. The weather conditions were fine (good visibility, no wind). The last 200 altimeters are more steep. Reached the summit in 6,5 hours together with my guide Raul (agency: Julio Verne). Nice views on the crater and my next peak (Chimborazo).

On the way down we moved fast (sometimes taking a short cut jumping across a crevasse). Reached the refugio without any problems.

Posted Oct 22, 2003 4:29 am

Tomás BlázquezRoute Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: August 2003

Tomás Blázquez

I climbed Cotopaxi by the normal route. The ice started about 5100 metres high. The glacier was very icy and it was dificult to find the track because there wasn´t snow in this part of the way. It's better to have a guide before you to find the correct way. You can find in the descent some hidden holes in the snow. If you go with a guide you have to be careful: they want to climb quickly, and some of them don't want to get the top.

Tomás Blázquez, Madrid, Spain
Posted Oct 18, 2003 4:45 pm

Miguel Angel PerezRoute Climbed: South Route and Normal Route Date Climbed: April, 2002

Miguel Angel Perez

The south route was nice but no better than the north side (normal route). We had to turn around because of an inmense crevease that blocked the route.

On the normal route 2 of the 6 of my group reached the summit. I got sick and turn around at 5.700 m.

Going there again in December 2003 and going down on skis!!!
Posted Aug 22, 2003 11:08 am

Jerry LNormal Route / February, 1976 & February, 2003
Date Climbed: Feb 8, 1976

Jerry L

My first attempt was on February 8, 1976 when I was working there with the Peace Corps. We made it to 17,000' and turned back. I'd forgot about this but was looking through some of my old letters and found several references to our failed attempt.

My next attempt was with my son in February, 2003. We left the refuge at about 1:00 a.m. The weather was terrible with sleet and high winds. It was evident that I had not completely recovered from a virus which I had several days earlier and I felt very weak. I decided to turn around at about 16,500' , short of the glaciers, as I knew I didn't have the energy to summit. My son made it to the glaciers with our guide and then they turned back.
Posted Mar 6, 2003 4:49 am

miztflipRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 15-16 February 2003  Sucess!


Bad luck with the weather as 20 people summited the day we arrived at the hut followed by7-8 inches of snow. We attempted to summit on both days following with both attempts ending around 19,000 due to the avalanche conditions. Tons of other parties climbing with the same results. The day after we left the weather improved and several teams made the summit. It just wasn't my trip.
Posted Feb 25, 2003 9:20 am

tonybell1Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 16, 2003  Sucess!


Good weather and great snow conditions
Posted Feb 23, 2003 8:12 pm

mtnman455Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: January 2003  Sucess!


we camped just to the right of the hut; too cheep to pay to stay. sumit took 5.5 hours. wicked weather. visibility was about 5m at best. covered in ice. no view at the summit but I still love the summit pic.
Posted Jan 30, 2003 11:42 pm

Zhenya77Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: December 30, 2002  Sucess!


Once we finished our acclimatization on two Illinizas we moved to Mt. Cotopaxi. From the base camp our team started to climb at around 2:30 am. It was a short hike to a glassier. Being in the dark we did not see the path. So i decided to go vertically up on the glassier. After 3 vertical meters the glassier become less steep. We roped up and continue to climb. Finally i saw a group of German alpinists ahead of us. I followoed there path and finally we were on the right trail. Some of our member was not acclimatized well. Thus they could not keep up with the tempo. At around 6:00 am i decide to continue summit "SOLO". Once i get out of rope i started to move up much more faster. At 9:00 am i reached the summit. I spent there about and hour, and then came back to the base camp. Unfortunatly i had to come back when the sun was way up. Thus it was enormous heat. I ran out of water, which forced me to eat snow. I return to camp safe, however i have to sdmit it was quite a stranious walk for a total of 9 hours
Posted Jan 23, 2003 7:56 pm

El Tigre ValderramaRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: January 11 2003  Sucess!

El Tigre Valderrama

With my wife Annica Carlsson, I summited the Cotopaxi at about 7:30 AM, after about 6.5 hours. We had light rain and ice showers at the beginning of the climb, and higher on the mountain we had strong wind. We could not see the crater! Once down at the Cotopaxi refuge the mountain was absolutely clear-typical....




Posted Jan 11, 2003 2:39 pm

philtowerRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 30 September 2002  Sucess!
Hiked to Cotopaxi in a couple of days after acclimatisation climb of Iliniza Norte, going through El Boliche entrance to national park from El Chaupi.

Left Jose Rivas refuge at 1am and reached summit at 5.30am, so hung around there for 30 minutes to get pictures of sunrise. Back at refuge at 8am. The only difficulties I found were making sure you pick the right entry point to the glacier to get the path to the top (follow a guided party if unsure - I reccied this the day before the climb) and the last crevasse before the summit. This crevasse used to have a metal bridge, but there is now a narrow snow bridge immediately followed by a short steep pitch where care is needed (especially on the descent).

Fantastic views from the top (and indeed on the way up, due to clear starry night with half moon).
Posted Oct 1, 2002 1:41 pm

chiRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 1 August 2002  Sucess!


Nice climb, no real technical difficulties. beware of numerous crevasses. approx. Alpine PD+

Acclimatise well and wait for the weather. The sound of the wind inside the hut can be demoralising but it's worth going up to the top the scree and reassess conditions.
Posted Sep 16, 2002 8:04 am

Erik Van GenechtenRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: July 1998

Erik Van Genechten

We climbed with six people, led by three guides in three rope teams. Weather conditions were excellent.

My buddie Koen and myself took of like a rocket from the refugio. The speed appeared way to fast. It was my first time above 5000m (or even 4000m for that matter) and the lack of experience killed me. Koen and I had to split. Koen continued with the guide while I waited for the second team. I was able to hook up to the second team, but finally had to give up at about 5700m.

One day I will return to conquer this beautiful mountain.
Posted Aug 22, 2002 4:11 am

jpdoumeyrouRoute Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: feb 2002  Sucess!


First high altitude experience for my partner (I wasn't so hot myself). Ugly weather ( http://www.geocities.com/jpdoumeyrou/ecuador2002/gallerie2.html ) Lack of training. Turned around at the level of the black rocks. Lost my seeing glasses on the way down. Very tired. Loved it.
Posted Aug 9, 2002 6:12 am

BicRungeeRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: January 2001  Sucess!

Climbed with Matt "dad" Sherman and Linda Josephson after spending one night in noisy refugio. Cold & windy on glacier with some frozen precipitation. Several crevasse bridges (more apparent descending) and a traverse of moderately steep terrain - maybe 40 to 45 degrees. Sunny & warm on summit. Impressive crater. Routine descent though snow conditions had softened, of course, and anti-balling plates might have been helpful on crampons.
Posted Jul 10, 2002 3:30 pm

Henning LegeRoute Climbed: normal Date Climbed: 4-January-1998  Sucess!
A very smooth climb with an Ecuadorian guide.

Before visiting Ecuador, I had not even tried to summit any of Europes 4000m peaks! Thus, when I had to abandon my ambitions of observing Mountain Tapir or Spectacled Bear in the wild, I certainly was the amateur on any summit attempt to follow.

It turned out, however, that others were prepared even less. Several tour groups (especially from my home country) failed the same day predictably, because they had not bothered enough to acclimatizise.
Posted Jun 13, 2002 6:30 am

tiefenthalerRoute Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 25 April 1987  Sucess!


Start at the hut at 4 am. Summited 9:30 am. We were lucky with the weather since the clouds started to come in after 10 am.
Posted May 19, 2002 5:11 am

thomas.schmeidlDate Climbed: April 1986  Sucess!


Summitted with Wolfi and Schol after reaching the crater rim NOT at the highest point.
Posted Mar 19, 2002 4:53 pm

Bernhard SauerRoute Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: January 1988  Sucess!

Bernhard Sauer

Intended to fly with the paraglider from the summit...unfortunately it was far to windy and I carried the paraglider back to the hut
Posted Jan 25, 2002 2:39 am

ZekeRoute Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: Jan 2001  Sucess!


Left the hut at 1am... reached the top in 6 1/2 hours.. what an awsome summit. Great views or our next peak, Chimobrazo and other volcanoes...

route does get steep in sections. Roped up toward the top near the Yanasacha Black Band.

Great next step after Orizaba and Ecuador was a great country.

we got caught in the middle of economic uprest and were also robbed at gunpoint by 3 bandito's in Quito. there were 4 of us and they attacked us anyway. i would try to take mace in your luggage or better yet, buy some while your over there as a precaution. This was not fun but we did fight back and fought them off.

recomend carrying mace and only the money you will need at the moment on you. do NOT carry all your cash. Also, carry a copy of your passport, not the original.
Posted Nov 28, 2001 12:44 pm

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