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Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.39540°N / 9.90410°E |
Route Type:
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Mountaineering |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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D inf - D (III - 45°) |
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Grade:
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III |
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Overview
Rarely climbed because it's not a famous route ...I found it one of the most amusing routes in central alps, can be comparable with the Kuffner spur to Piz Palù, a little wilder but more relaxing ...
to be climbed !!
 | Almost 700 m of difference in elevation Fantastic rock on the ridge. Better starting hour 4 o'clock in july to avoid danger of ice falls while approaching the route Time to get the starting point ~ 1,5-2 hours Time for the ridge 4 hours coming back to Boval requires 2-3 hours Some sections are better made with pitches (in the higher section after the saddle) |
Approach
Starting point is the Boval-Hütte 2495mSituation: North Bernina near Morteratsch Glacier.
Getting There: train Morteratsch station: 2 hours on path left of Morteratsch glacier
Route Description
 | 2 different ways to get the ridge (best one and described is the lower) Follow the path to the old refuge, along a small ravine till the water coming down from the Vadret Boval Dadains. Along some stone and ice slopes to get the step under the ridge. Along a grass ledge, then stones and snow till a higher step (starting point) |
 | Straight along the ridge (II) till the first snow shoulder. |  | Along the ridge, on the southern side, (II-III) till an even section. |
 | Straight on till a gendarme and then get the small saddle behind it (eventual rappel) | ||
 |  | From here straight along the rocky ridge (wonderful rock III ) till the last (not short) snow slope that brings directly on the summit. |
Coming down is quite easy and without problems.