OverviewRarely climbed because it's not a famous route ...
I found it one of the most amusing routes in central alps, can be comparable with the Kuffner spur to Piz Palù, a little wilder but more relaxing ...
to be climbed !!
|Almost 700 m of difference in elevation|
Fantastic rock on the ridge.
Better starting hour 4 o'clock in july to avoid danger of ice falls while approaching the route
Time to get the starting point ~ 1,5-2 hours
Time for the ridge 4 hours
coming back to Boval requires 2-3 hours
Some sections are better made with pitches (in the higher section after the saddle)
ApproachStarting point is the Boval-Hütte 2495m
Situation: North Bernina near Morteratsch Glacier.
Getting There: train Morteratsch station: 2 hours on path left of Morteratsch glacier
|2 different ways to get the ridge (best one and described is the lower)|
Follow the path to the old refuge, along a small ravine till the water coming down from the Vadret Boval Dadains.
Along some stone and ice slopes to get the step under the ridge.
Along a grass ledge, then stones and snow till a higher step (starting point)
|Straight along the ridge (II) till the first snow shoulder.||Along the ridge, on the southern side, (II-III) till an even section.|
|Straight on till a gendarme and then get the small saddle behind it (eventual rappel)|
|From here straight along the rocky ridge (wonderful rock III ) till the last (not short) snow slope that brings directly on the summit.|
Coming down is quite easy and without problems.