It is the second summit on the north of Piz Bernina and gives its name to the biggest gletscher of the group.

Its routes are old-fashioned and forgotten by modern climbers because of the medium difficulties and non famous first climbers !!

Boundaries of the mountain :
South : Fuorcla Prievlusa (3430 m) - the starting point for the Crast'Alva (Biancograt - north ridge to Piz Bernina)
North : Fourcla Boval (3347 m) - the starting point for the normal route of this summit.
on the East and the West 2 high walls.

Routes

North ridge - normal - from Fuorcla Boval (3347m) easy in good conditions from Chamanna Tschierva,
some problems with ice or snow from Bovalhutte

East side - Morteratsch valley :
all the routes have classic difficulties, changing with snow and rock conditions,

the following routes can be considered D or, at most, TDinf (passages or pitches II-III-IV UIAA)
Drop of the routes about 600-700 m
Drop from Bovalhutte to the summit 1300 m

NE spur - Gussfeld-Grass (1885) - dangerous for ice fall (route A on the photo)

E wall - Zippert-Kohler (1911) - dangerous when not clean from snow (route D on the photo)

ENE ridge (Crasta da la Spraunza) (1909) - Schucan-Pfister - wonderful and not dangerous (Crasta da la Spraunza = Ridge of Hope) (route B on the photo)

ESE ridge - Unna-Schocher (1888) - worth with dry rocks - starting from Piz Prievlus (3610m) (route C on the photo)

West side - Roseg valley :
the routes are here easier than the ones of the east side, high mountain typical climbing, classic difficulties PD-AD inf
Drop of the routes about 600m
Drop from Tschiervahutte to the summit 1200 m
S channel - Gross-Minnigerode (1877) - dangerous with warm (must get out early in the morning)
SW ridge - Jenny-Flury (1868) - very fine and amusing

ski-mountaneeiring

a wonderful cross walley tour : BSA - rope and axe necessary - to be done in April and May :
First day : from Pontresina railway to Chamanna Tschierva - 800m - 3-4 hours
Second day : from Chamanna Tschierva along the "vedretin da Tschierva" till the Fourcla Boval and to the top
(if conditions are not good reach the pass 3208)
descent along the Boval-Dadour glacier till Morteratsch railway

Huts

Boval-Hütte 2495m
Situation: North Bernina near Morteratsch Glacier.
open: 15 of March - 15 of May and 15 of june- 15 of October
Size: 100 pers.
Getting There: train Morteratsch station: 2 hours on path left of Morteratsch Glacier
Hut's phone : 081 842 64 03
Hut's reservation phone : 081 842 61 34
Tschierva-Hütte 2573m
Situation: West Bernina right near Tschierva Glacier.
open: end of March - 15 of May and 15 of june- 15 of October
Size: 100 pers.
Getting There: Pontresina + Val Roseg: 3 hours on path
Hut's phone : 081 842 63 91
Hut's reservation phone : 081 833 32 89
(these data are from Bernina page)

the wonderful sight of Piz Palù from the Boval Hutte :

and ...

Getting There

Starting point to get here is the famous small town of "San Moritz"
You can get here from Italy :
by car : Milano - Lecco - Colico - Chiavenna - Maloia pass
by railroad : Milano - Sondrio - Tirano - Bernina railway (the highest in Europe)

Pontresina and Morteratsh are on the route from S.Moritz to the Bernina pass