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Piz Morteratsch
Mountain/Rock

Piz Morteratsch

 
Piz Morteratsch

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Engadin, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.39540°N / 9.90410°E

Object Title: Piz Morteratsch

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer

Elevation: 12316 ft / 3754 m

 

Page By: gabriele

Created/Edited: Feb 4, 2004 / Nov 9, 2007

Object ID: 152295

Hits: 14283 

Page Score: 89.39%  - 29 Votes 

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Overview

Spectacular point of sight on the Bernina Group



It is the second summit on the north of Piz Bernina and gives its name to the biggest gletscher of the group.

Its routes are old-fashioned and forgotten by modern climbers because of the medium difficulties and non famous first climbers !!

Boundaries of the mountain :
South : Fuorcla Prievlusa (3430 m) - the starting point for the Crast'Alva (Biancograt - north ridge to Piz Bernina)
North : Fourcla Boval (3347 m) - the starting point for the normal route of this summit.
on the East and the West 2 high walls.


Routes

North ridge - normal - from Fuorcla Boval (3347m) easy in good conditions from Chamanna Tschierva,
some problems with ice or snow from Bovalhutte

East side - Morteratsch valley :
all the routes have classic difficulties, changing with snow and rock conditions,
 
Photo route - East side in...
 


the following routes can be considered D or, at most, TDinf (passages or pitches II-III-IV UIAA)
Drop of the routes about 600-700 m
Drop from Bovalhutte to the summit 1300 m

NE spur - Gussfeld-Grass (1885) - dangerous for ice fall (route A on the photo)

E wall - Zippert-Kohler (1911) - dangerous when not clean from snow (route D on the photo)

ENE ridge (Crasta da la Spraunza) (1909) - Schucan-Pfister - wonderful and not dangerous (Crasta da la Spraunza = Ridge of Hope) (route B on the photo)

ESE ridge - Unna-Schocher (1888) - worth with dry rocks - starting from Piz Prievlus (3610m) (route C on the photo)

West side - Roseg valley :
the routes are here easier than the ones of the east side, high mountain typical climbing, classic difficulties PD-AD inf
Drop of the routes about 600m
Drop from Tschiervahutte to the summit 1200 m
S channel - Gross-Minnigerode (1877) - dangerous with warm (must get out early in the morning)
SW ridge - Jenny-Flury (1868) - very fine and amusing


ski-mountaneeiring

a wonderful cross walley tour : BSA - rope and axe necessary - to be done in April and May :
First day : from Pontresina railway to Chamanna Tschierva - 800m - 3-4 hours
Second day : from Chamanna Tschierva along the "vedretin da Tschierva" till the Fourcla Boval and to the top
(if conditions are not good reach the pass 3208)
descent along the Boval-Dadour glacier till Morteratsch railway


Huts

Boval-Hütte 2495m
Situation: North Bernina near Morteratsch Glacier.
open: 15 of March - 15 of May and 15 of june- 15 of October
Size: 100 pers.
Getting There: train Morteratsch station: 2 hours on path left of Morteratsch Glacier
Hut's phone : 081 842 64 03
Hut's reservation phone : 081 842 61 34
Tschierva-Hütte 2573m
Situation: West Bernina right near Tschierva Glacier.
open: end of March - 15 of May and 15 of june- 15 of October
Size: 100 pers.
Getting There: Pontresina + Val Roseg: 3 hours on path
Hut's phone : 081 842 63 91
Hut's reservation phone : 081 833 32 89
(these data are from Bernina page)

the wonderful sight of Piz Palù from the Boval Hutte :
and ...

Getting There

Starting point to get here is the famous small town of "San Moritz"
You can get here from Italy :
by car : Milano - Lecco - Colico - Chiavenna - Maloia pass
by railroad : Milano - Sondrio - Tirano - Bernina railway (the highest in Europe)

Pontresina and Morteratsh are on the route from S.Moritz to the Bernina pass

Red Tape

Switzerland is still out of Schengen, so you need passport or Identity card

When To Climb

June - September for the walls and the South ridge
April - May for Ski-mountaneering

Images