Two Bolt Rock, 5.6-5.11c

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 33.96601°N / 116.08461°W
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview/Approach

Dow leading Leather Community, 5.9*
Dow leading Leather Community, 5.9*

Towers of Uncertainty was not included in Miramontes first two editions of his extensive guide for Joshua Tree National Park.  You are almost certain to have it to yourselves on most days (2018).  This area consists of a bunch of relatively small formations clustered close together not even a half mile off the dirt Geology Tour Road on the west side.  The ratio of sunny to shaded routes is approximately 1:1 making this a solid destination whether it is hot or cold.  The amount of grass on the desert floor in this area is kind of cool.  I expect it simply has seen less impact from humans over the years compared to the rest of the park.

Two Bolt Rock is the first climbing formation you come to on approach on the left side of the trail.  All of its routes are located on its north side which is comprised of two walls split by a deep left facing corner (Fuss, Rattle and Roll, 5.7).  The routes on the right side do receive some sun in the morning during the winter (slight northeast tilt).  You can no doubt walk off a variety of options, but the west end is quick and easy.  Some hardware needs to be replaced as of 2018.  Punchy starts at the grade on the 5.9’s.

Park at the small pull out on the right side of Geology Tour road just shy of three miles and just before a wash.  Hike a trail westward that in short order enters the jumbled landscape of Towers of Uncertainty.  Leave the main trail at the first formation on your left which is Two Bolt Rock.

Routes listed left to right as you face the north facing walls

Bent Over Backwards- 35’-5.10c/

Darren’s Scrape, Scramble and Ramble- 35’-5.6/ Secure solo up a well varnished 5.6 crack just to the left of the left facing corner (Fuss, Rattle and Roll).  Deserves a recommendation in the local guide although it does not receive one, compared to other more recommended 5.6 trad routes.  The crux is about 2/3rds up as the crack leans left.  Walk off/scramble down the formation to the west.  Dow

Fuss, Rattle and Roll- 35’-5.7/

Two Bolt Wall- 35’-5.9+*/ As with most 5.9+’s in the park, a more challenging climb than most 5.10a’s. Short, but punchy the whole way through three nasty (2018) hangers and bolts.  Old button heads with rusty hangers. Not much for pro otherwise.  Hard reachy edges for the grade.  Walk off/scramble down the formation to the west.  Can’t TR, have to build an anchor and bring the 2nd up.  Dow

Leather Community- 35’-5.9*/ Typical spicy Jtree start, but fun route the whole way with three crux moves at the grade:  the start (stemming/micro side pulls), near the end via a reachy balance stance mantle on a horizontal and the final slab mantle.  Fixed belay on top (2 bolts vs described as 1 in the guide-2018).  You can get a small off set or two in to supplement the three bolts, two of which are decent, one bolt did not get replaced when the other two did.  The TR anchor is way back there, needs good extension to get the rope over the edge.  Walk off/scramble down the formation to the west.  Dow



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