Destinazione Paradiso

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Cima alle Coste
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Destinazione Paradiso

Page Type:	Route
Lat/Lon:	45.97760°N / 10.91130°E
Route Type:	Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Season:	Spring, Fall
Time Required:	A long day
Difficulty:	UIAA VI+, VII+
Number of Pitches:	17
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Overview

Destinazione Paradiso - Cima alle Coste, Central Wall

Cima alle Coste is a mighty 700 meters high wall situated in Sarca Valley middle mountain area, a world famous climbing area in reason of limestone’s quality. The peak is called also Gran Diedro di Dro in reason of its peculiar shape. It appears like a huge corner formed by two tremendous walls: the very high South face, steep and challenging, is situated on the right, the East face - or Central Wall- relatively more accessible and located on the left of the huge corner, is interrupted in the middle from an horizontal system of ledges.

The lower section is a smooth grey blackboard which basal pedestal 250 m high is called “Lo Scudo” (The Shield), built in an extra quality limestone. The upper part of Central Wall, steeper and less smooth, requires an athletic climb on dihedrals and cracks.

Cima alle Coste and Brento annotated view

Cima alle Coste and Monte Brento

Getting There

Road access

From A22 Brennero Motorway exit “Rovereto Sud – Lago di Garda Nord” follow the road 240 towards Riva del Garda, Nago and Arco. Once getting to Arco first roundabout turn to right following the road towards Dro and Trento, entering Sarca Valley. Cross the nice village named Dro. Carry on along the main road for about 3 km., reaching on you left-hand side a narrow road to Lago Bagattoli. Turn to left following this road and reaching at once a parking area near the small lake (28 km. from Rovereto Sud exit).

Walking approach

A - From Lago Bagattoli: a forest track heading left enters the pine wood. Once getting the first fork, take the path on the left, then rise along a steep trail on the right leading towards the wall and reaching a wide and characteristic rocky slope. Scramble on along a ledge crossing these slabs and leading to the base of the wall (0,45 minutes from Lago Bagattoli).

The trail inside the wood

Slabs near the wall

Approaching

B - From Dro sports-ground: another approach is possible starting from Dro parking near the sports-ground. The approach is a bit longer than the previous, but the descent from the summit leads just here...

Route Description

- Destinazione Paradiso 600 m. - Mixed equipment (bolts and pegs)

Difficulty: UIAA VI+, VII+, A0 (a brief move)
Equipment: all belays are equipped with bolts, along the pitches mixed equipment (bolts in the first section, pegs in the upper one)
Climbing length: 600 m
Exposure: East
First ascent: T. Quecchia, D. Ballerini, C. Stefani, F. Prati, F. Culazzu 1995
Starting point: Lago Bagattoli or alternatuvely Dro sports-ground

Amongst the modern routes running on Cima alle Coste, “Destinazione Paradiso” is the finest of the whole face. This stunning route has two different “souls” and climbing styles: a moderne one in the lower section on smooth and compact slabs (“Lo Scudo”), equipped with bolts, where the climbing style is sporting. A more trad climbing way on the upper section, steeper and less smooth, which offers an athletic climb on dihedrals and cracks. A set of friends and nuts is required here.

Approach

A) from Lago Bagattoli - A forest gravel road starting from the parking near the lake heads to left entering the pine wood. Once getting the first fork, take the path on the left, follow it till meeting a steep trail starting on the right. Take this latter, leading towards the wall and reaching a wide and characteristic smooth rocky slope. Scramble on along a ledge crossing these slabs and leading to the bottom of the wall (0,45 minutes from the lake)

B) from Dro sports-ground - Take the forest road and follow it towards North (right). This trail leads to meet on the left hand the same steep trail as descrbed in the previous point.

Destinazione Paradiso route topo

The route is situated 50 meters to the left of Cima alle Coste central main huge corner, below a little outcrop forming a wide corner to the left. The starting point is on the slabs to the right of this corner.

Route report

L1 – L6 VI+, VII, 250 m The first six pitches, equipped with spaced bolts, run on the lower blackboard called “Lo Scudo”. Climb is strongly technical on smooth slabs with excellent limestone. Abseil anchors on all the stances.

After “Lo Scudo”, the following four pitches (L7- L10) climb across the middle vegetated ledges, getting to the last ledge running below the upper wall.

L7 – Climb a slab exiting to a terrace. Cross directly the terrace and belay below a brief rocky wall. V+
L8 – Up the wall getting to a second terrace. Cross it and traverse left reaching the stance.
L9 - Traverse a few meters to the left and climb another brief rocky wall. Belay on the wall. IV
L10 – Exit the wall getting to the upper ledge. Follow it to the left to reach an equipped stance near a tree.

The last seven pitches are the most challenging. The belays are equipped, friends and nuts are required along the pitches.

Destinazione Paradiso, on the Shield

Upper wall

Belaying above the middle ledges

L11 - Up directly on slabs cut by thin cracks, then traverse left to a comfortable stance VI, 50 m
L12 – Up straightly again on a flake, then head to left to climb an overhang. Another comfortable stance on a tree. VI+, 30 m.
L13 - Climb a carved wall above the stance, then slanting left reach a dihedrals’ system leading to the stance VI, 45 m.
L14 – Up directly, then slanting right reaching a stance below a yellow corner. VI, 35 m.
L15 – Climb the yellow corner, then take on the right a cracks’ sytem below the roofs. Climb it to the stance.
L16 – Slanting right climb a yellow wall cut by tiny cracks, traverse right on a small pulpit, then up an overhanging wall getting to a good stance on a tree, where the major difficulties end. VI, VI+
L17 – Slanting left take a chimney on loose rock leading to the summit, V

Descent: cross the summit wood heading towards West and reaching a flat path. Follow it towards left (South), then take a forest road towards SW for about 600 meters, leading to a fork on a hill. Descent left reaching the path n. 425 Sentiero delle Cavre. Follow it towards Dro, reaching the bottom of Sarca valley.

Essential Gear

Rope 2 x 60, Helmet, a set of friends and excentrics

Red Tape

No fees, no permits and no restrictions in climbing and hiking.

Climate and nature

Due to the Garda Lake’s propitious influence and the area’s limited altitude, the climate is very mild and it’s possible to climb in all seasons. Nature is magnificent, showing a pleasant marriage of Mediterranean flora and alpine one.

When to climb

All year round, anyhow the best periods to climb "Destinazione Paradiso" run from March to May and from September to November

Where to stay

This area is a primary touristic destination, offering several agriturismo, bed and breakfast, hotels, renting rooms and apartments in Arco, Dro, Pietramurata and Ceniga. Camp-sites in Arco and Pietramurata.