CIMA ALLE COSTE m. 860

Cima alle Coste - also called Gran Diedro di Dro (Dro Great Corner) – is a mighty 700 meters high wall situated in the middle mountain’s area named Sarca Valley, a world famous climbing area and truly an earthly paradise both for trad and sportive climbing, due to limestone’s quality and climate’s mildness. This mountain shows a peculiar shape, looking like a huge corner well shaped by two tremendous faces: South face, steep and very high, and East face, sloping and more accessible, named “Lo Scudo” (The Shield). Below East Ridge is situated a 300 meter high pillar named Guglia Solidarnosch.
Cima alle Coste has three different sectors:

- CENTRAL WALL
- LO SCUDO (THE SHIELD)
- SOUTH FACE
- GUGLIA SOLIDARNOSCH

While rock’s quality on South Face may be sometimes no good, “The Shield” shows an extra quality limestone; for this reason, together with scenery’s amenities, in last years several classic and sportive climbing routes had been realized on these beautiful grey and compact slabs and they’re very frequently climbed.

Getting there

Cima alle Coste Climbing Martini-Tranquillini Route

Central Wall, Martini-Tranquillini: a challenging crack under the great roof

A pines' wood below Cima alle Coste

Lo Scudo (The Shield)

The Shield - Nuvole Bianche

Road access

From A22 Brennero Motorway exit “Rovereto Sud – Lago di Garda Nord” follow the road 240 towards Riva del Garda, Nago and Arco. Once getting to Arco first roundabout turn to right following the road entering Sarca Valley towards Dro and Trento, crossing the little nice village named Dro. Carry on along main road for about 3 km., reaching on you left-hand side a narrow road to Lago Bagattoli. Turn to left following this road and reaching at once a parking area near the small lake (28 km. from Rovereto Sud exit).

Walking access

From Lago Bagattoli a forestal track towards left enters the pine’s little wood. Once getting the first fork, follow the path on the left, then rise along a steep trail on the right leading towards the wall and reaching a wide and characteristic rocky slope. Scramble on along a ledge crossing these slabs and leading to the base of the wall (0,45 minutes from Lago Bagattoli).

Routes overview

Cima alle Coste and Scudo routes: A Oasi di Pace B Martini-Tranquillini 1 Ummagumma 2 Nuvole Bianche 3 Transeamus 4 Mariposa Libre 5 Zilinder Weg

Cima alle Coste Central Wall routes: A Oasi di pace B Sole nascente C Destinazione Paradiso D La luna e i falò E Martini-Tranquillini F Via della Rinascita G Sodoma e Gomorrah Z Clessidre S Steinkotter

CENTRAL WALL routes overview from left to right

- Oasi di pace (Oasis of Peace) VII, A1, 650 m. – Trad route
- Specchio di Osiride (The Mirror of Osiride) VII, A1, 600 m. – Trad route
- Sole Nascente (Sunrise) VI+, A1, 600 m. – Pegs
- Destinazione Paradiso (Heaven Destination) VII, A1, 600 m. Mixed equipment (bolts and pegs)
- La Luna e i Falò (The Moon and the Bonfires) VII, A1, 750 m. Mixed equipment (bolts and pegs)
- Martini-Tranquillini Route V+, VI, 500 m. – Trad route
- Clessidra V+, VI+, 500 mt. – Trad route

LO SCUDO (THE SHIELD) routes overview from left to right

- Mas que Nada 6b, 300 m. - Bolts
- Profondo Bush 6b, 6c, 300 m. – Bolts
- Passeggiata di Pasqua (Easter Day’s Walk) IV+, V+, 300 m. – Trad route
- Dino Sottovia V+, 300 m. – Trad route
- Ummagumma 7a (6a), 280 m. – Bolts
- Direttissima VI+, VII, 300 m. – Trad route
- Nuvole Bianche (White Clouds) 6c (5c obbl.), 300 m. – Bolts
- Transeamus 6a, 6b, 280 m. – Bolts
- Sesto Grado 6a (5c obbl.) , 300 m. – Bolts
- Mariposa Libre (Free Butterfly) 6a, 280 m. - Bolts
- Zilinder Weg V+, VI, 280 m. – Trad route
- Via della Mezza Luna (Half-Moon) VI+, A1, 250 m. – Trad route

SOUTH FACE routes overview from left to right

- Steinkotter – Holzer - Messner V+, VI, 700 m. – Trad route
- Via della Rinascita (Revival Route) VI+, VII, 650 m. – Trad route
- Sodoma e Gomorrah VI+, VII, 650 – Trad route

GUGLIA SOLIDARNOSCH

- Via dei Tipografi (Typographers’ Route) IV, V+, 300 mt. – Trad route
- Marina IV, V+, 250 m. – Trad route

Descent from Central and South faces: cross the summit wood heading towards West and reaching a flat path. Follow it towards South, then follow towards SW a forestal road for about 600 meters leading to a fork on a hill. Descent left reaching the path n. 425 towards Dro leading to the bottom of Sarca valley.

Descent from The Shield: abseiling the routes

History

Cima alle Coste, Martini-Tranquillini central corner

Central Wall, Martini-Tranquillini Route

Cima alle Coste - Nuvole Bianche (White Clouds)

The Shield - Nuvole Bianche

The Shield - Mariposa Libre

The wall’s first ascent was realized by Heinz Steinkotter, Heini Holzer and Reinhold Messner in 1966, climbing an explorative 700 meter high route having an enormous historic worth, but today rarely climbed.

Grades and Scales

According to Italian climbing areas’ habit, trad routes’ grades are expressed in UIAA Scale, while modern ones in French Scale.

Red Tape

There are no restrictions in climbing and hiking.

Climate and nature

Due to the Garda Lake’s propitious influence and the area’s limited altitude, the climate is very mild and it’s possible to climb in all seasons. Nature is magnificent, showing a pleasant marriage of Mediterranean flora and alpine one.

When to climb

All year round.

Where to stay

This area is a primary touristic destination, offering several hotels, agriturismo and bed and breakfast, renting rooms and apartments in Arco, Dro, Pietramurata and Ceniga.
Campings in Arco and Pietramurata.