direct ridge ascent

direct ridge ascent

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 20.42758°N / 99.07093°W
Additional Information Difficulty: max class 2 scramble
Sign the Climber's Log

Route Description

The approach direct to the foot of the ridge is in clear site from the Panamerican Highway #85: straight through several kilometers of irrigated fields on dirt roads, which gradually succumb to drier, unkept fields on rougher dirt roads, which soon just slowly start to disappear into wild scrub country. Stop before you get stuck or run over a cactus, then park, and walk from there. Although you are still in sight of where you came from, not many people come out this far, and it shows. Furthermore, despite being in clear view, the myriad of dirt roads though the fields are confusing and potentially dangerous as you could get stuck in the mud or roll into a canal. So definitely meet your guide (see red tape section) in Yolotepec near the Panamerican Highway prior to wandering off this way.
Cerro Cebadero summit view Eastsummit view East along ridge and descent route


There is no real trail to the summit of this peak. From the starting point past the fields of Yolotepec, you will soon approach the steep ridge which you must attain to reach the summit. Up is up, as they say, or is it? While trying to attain the ridge, forward movement will be constantly challenged by perilous barbed vegetation. Scrambling on rock generally does not exceed steep class 2 whichever route you follow, but is everywhere complicated by those same treacherous plants. Route-finding up to (and down from) the ridge thus consists of trying to follow a path along loose dirt or rock that does not terminate in dangerous or impassable vegetation. One slip can be enough to poke out an eye.

Once upon the ridge, walking in either direction is easier but caution is still required. The final assault is a fairly simple class 2 scramble up from the ridge along the gentler south side of the summit block.

To access the cave, drop down west from the summit to a small thumb of rock sticking out over the ridge. Find a path down from here towards the large cave entrance which is just visible from that point, somewhat obscured by a fair-sized tree and other plants. It’s all steep, the first part hand climbing down on rock (class 2+++), then the next part side-stepping the steep, loose vegetation to the entrance. You could also go down around the rock thumb, but you would have to lose and regain much more elevation and it wouldn’t be much easier. Either way, watch out for k’eña (snakes in Otomí) in the grass. Inside there are signs and smells of tsaxmagu (bats), but they must reside somewhere else as it’s not dark enough for them.
Cerro Cebaderocave entrance is visible as black spot beneath summit and to the left


Total R/T travel for this route is only about 2-4km depending on exact starting point with about 400M elevation gain however there is no trail so ascent and descent can be quite slow going.

Essential Gear

biznaga de cerro


Jeans and boots are the smartest hiking wear, and sun glasses and a wide-brimmed hat are both also recommended. An early start is extremely helpful again the skin-destroying hyadi (sun) of this arid country.

Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.