Dog Police, 5.10c, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Dog Police was one of the final trad climbs I led or soloed in Red Rock within my grade range (through 5.11).  It sits alone for the most part on the northeast corner of Magic Mountain.  This feature is more commonly known for easier trad introduction routes as in Honeycomb Chimney and Community Pillar.  Many of the other routes on this feature get ignored for the most part but two deserving attention at the same grade range as Dog Police are Chocolate Flakes, 5.10d*, and Edge of the Sun, 5.10d**, both of which are located a distance from Dog Police on the north face of Magic. 

Although listed as two pitches, I recommend leading Dog Police as one sustained pitch.  The first pitch begins below grade through a wide pod to enter the long finger crack.  The crux is about half way up the first pitch via fingers in whitish sandstone with edges for your feet vanishing for several meters.  Pro is optimum on Dog Police as you can plug gear where ever you choose on this entire route.  After the crux, you jog right to another crack and continue to a ledge.  From the ledge is the crux of the second pitch which is not as sustained as the first pitch crux.  There are those who signed in on MP.com who disagree.  I tend to agree with Handren’s guide that the first pitch crux is full on 5.10+ and the second pitch crux is closer to 5.10-.   After several meters off the deck of the second pitch ledge, the remaining climbing eases off.  This is a full 160’ pitch if not more, therefore a healthy gear call if you are going to lead it as one pitch as I recommend.  The fixed nut rap in 2019 was in decent shape.  You need double ropes to descend.  The approach is a pain for one pitch, but finger cracks of this length are not that common at Red Rock.  This route is not “one of the better” crack lines in the park as suggested at MP.com by several sign ins.  These folks have just not seen all of Red Rock yet.  But it is worth the trouble.  If I was fresh and new to the area, I would combine it with the before mention routes of the same grade for a full day of 5.10+ climbing on Magic Mountain.  Dog is lit up in the morning although the base might remain shaded.  True east facing wall.

Park at the Pine Creek trailhead and hike on the main trail towards Mescalito.  Stay on the trail crossing the creek directly below the center of the north face of Magic Mountain on your left.  There is not a distinguishable trail up to the far-left end of Magic Mountain’s north face.  Just zig zag up the loose slope to the very northeast corner, looking for a gully that runs up to the base of the route (photo).  You can also head directly for the route crossing the creek much eariler, but will incur more bushwhacking enroute.  The route is visible from the main trail by locating a whitish face, east facing, at the NE corner of Magic Mountain, at the top of a bushy gully (photo).  Once in the gully, you need to make two short scrambles up to the base.  The 2^nd one is slightly 5^th class.  On rappel, you can also descend this section with double 60m ropes from the very top of the route.  There is a fixed line on the first scramble section, but 3^rd class gets you up and left vs taking on the rope.  On descent you can descend the fixed line if you keep your harness on.

Route Description

1^st-2^nd Pitches- 170’-5.10c/ This is a long and sustained trad pitch by Red Rock standards via mostly fingers, but it offers rests when you need them keeping the grade below 5.11.  The first few meters are well below the grade but then you pull out of the pod and enter the true finger crack.  There are some tight hands and ring locks, but the best gear is C4#.3’s through #.5s.  You hit a section where the wall becomes quite blank for feet just below where you jog right to gain an easier crack above.   Then a significant ledge.  The start off this ledge takes small gear and offers some more stout climbing before backing considerably off to the fixed nut rap (2019).  This tall crack system sort of has a “lightning bolt” shape to it.

Descent

Rap with double 60m ropes.

Essential Gear

East facing with quite a bit of shade in the winter.   The route can be colder than you think in the winter as the sun angles further south.  During the summer, you would definitely not want to be on this wall in the morning.  You can place wires, but the crack is good enough to exclusively protect with cams if you prefer.  Single to C4#2, triple to C4#.5, several micro cams and a few slings and draws.  Combining the pitches, you can easily place quad #.3s and #.4s.  MP.com references double to C4#3, but the confident leader at this grade would be comfortable with a single from #.75 to #3.  Double ropes.