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Double Chocolate
Mountain/Rock

Double Chocolate

 
Double Chocolate

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Oregon, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 43.21938°N / 123.56684°W

Object Title: Double Chocolate

County: Douglas

Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Toprope

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 2600 ft / 792 m

 

Page By: alpinedon

Created/Edited: Nov 20, 2009 / Nov 20, 2009

Object ID: 575305

Hits: 1239 

Page Score: 76.66%  - 7 Votes 

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Overview

Double Chocolate is a small crag in the Callahans Climbing area. It is just above Turtle Rock. Despite being one of the smaller rocks in the area, it has a surprising number of routes. It is also one of the first rocks to get sunshine, and, as a consequence, is one of the first to dry out.

Getting There

If coming from north or south, take Interstate Five to exit# 125 (Garden Valley), take a right(from the north) or a left(from the south) onto Garden Vally blvd and proceed west, then northwest for several miles until you can turn left onto Melrose Rd. Drive for another couple of miles until you reach the Melrose Store. Stay on Melrose road for close to two more miles until you hit Flournoy Valley Rd. Turn right. Drive for nearly five miles to Touchstone Rd. Turn right again. Drive for for nearly two miles (the last 1/3 on gravel) until you come to the gate. Park below the gate if it is open (the gate can close without prior warning, so do yourself a favor and park below it, also, don't block or park too close to the gate). There is parking for ten to fifteen vehicles. Hike up the road to the hairpin curve, where an obvious trail heads off into the trees to the right. Take heed of the various warnings and proceed up the relentlessly steep trail for maybe half a mile to where the trail forks. Take the right-hand trail. In another quarter-mile or so, you will come to the base of Turtle Rock. Proceed up the steep trail between Mind Planet and Turtle, eventually ascending above both rocks. Continue on the trail, taking a right fork when possible, until you come to the sign at the base of Double Chocolate. To access Lizard Ledge and toprope anchors for the lower climbs, return the way you came until you find a faint climbers trail heading up towards the western side of the rock. An obvious, exposed ledge (the Lizard Ledge)cuts about mid-height across the rock. Carefully scrambling across this (old slings on bolts ease the passage) will deposit you onto a much wider, spacious ledge where there are bolts for top-roping and the starts for several climbs.
Callahans
The west side of Double Chocolate and Lizard Ledge.

Red Tape

Please note, this is Weyerhauser land, and is private property, so we, as climbers, need to take care of this area or we risk having it closed to us. So please, no smoking, camping, polluting of any kind. Now that this area has grown in popularity, we are starting to see more and more poorly buried toilet paper. It's not terrible yet, but it could become that way, so please, bury it deep or pack it out.
 
Callahans
 

Camping

While there is no camping allowed at the climbing area, there are numerous local areas to pitch a tent in comfort. According to Greg Orton's guide, the Twin Rivers Vacation Park has some nice group areas for tents. They can be contacted HERE. or contacted by phone at (541) 673-3811.
Though it is not recommended, there is free, waterless camping on the Bear Ridge portion (north of the climbing areas) of the Callahans, but risk of theft or vandalism runs high.

Weather

Local Weather Conditions HERE.

Routes

There are 12 established routes on Double Chocolate
The Routes:
Upper Double Chocolate:
Goldfinger 5.5 (easiest route to the top of DC)
Rocky Road 5.7
Banana Split Republic 5.7 w 5.9 var.
Cherry Garcia 5.8
Sunday Morning Obsession 5.10d
Steve Miller Route 5.10d
Kahlua Krypton 5.10a
Long Dong Silver 5.9+
Lower Double Chocolate:
To Be A Gecko 5.10d
Strawberry Jamming 5.7 (Top rope or trad)
Eat A Peach 5.8
Atomic Cafe 5.10a

Images

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Callahans