Welcome to SP!  -
Dovski Kriz
Mountain/Rock

Dovski Kriz

 
Dovski Kriz

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Julian Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.44114°N / 13.84303°E

Object Title: Dovski Kriz

Activities: Mountaineering, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 8339 ft / 2542 m

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Oct 1, 2003 / Sep 29, 2012

Object ID: 151928

Hits: 10484 

Page Score: 83.54%  - 17 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

In Slovenian language č, š and ž are pronounced like ch, sh, and zh.

Overview

 
Dovski Kriz seen from the...
From the east

 
Dovski Kriz above the hidden...
Above Amfiteater

The name is pronounced Dovshki Krizh. It means: The Cross of Dovje (=village name).

Dovški Križ is a special mountain. It is one of the highest in Martuljek group, but from nowhere it is distinctive, even not seen as a big mountain. On the other hand it offer so many different mountaineering possibilities, that it is very popular although no marked path ascends it (or may be just because of that). As in whole Martuljek natural park the nature phenomena on Dovski Kriz are also extraordinary. Wild ridges, snow rests in couloirs, the longest and softest scree, beautiful corners with lonely larches, waterfalls and more...

From north, Martuljek group looks like a broad, slightly curved crest of wild, rugged peaks. This range starts on NE with Vrtaski vrh, 1898m, continues towards W-SW over Sleme, 2077m and reaches the sharp Kukova spica, 2427m, with which a beautiful half circle of high mountains starts. Skrnatarica, 2448m, Dovski Kriz, 2542m, Visoki Oltar, 26021m and from this one in a NW direction Velika Ponca, 2602m, Mala Ponca, 2502m, Spik, 2472m, Frdamane Police, 2284m, Rigljica, 2074m and Rusica, 1911m. In front of this range the wide Siroka pec (2497m) stands, being connected with the main crest just on Dovski Kriz. From the main crest many ridges go towards SE - in the Vrata valley. The Kopice ridge goes from Dovski Kriz, that is why geographically the mountain has a shape of the cross (kriz=cross).

Between Dovski Kriz, Skrnatarica and Siroka pec the most lonesome basin in Julian Alps lies. Climbers call it Amfiteater. When you're in it, no voice reaches you, although the main Sava valley is just a few miles away. From NW a very interesting couloir reaches the main crest from Martuljek scree. It is called Jugova grapa, and has it's name by dr. Klement Jug, one of pioneers of Slovenian climbing, who died in 1924 in Triglav north face, when he soloed a route, which now also carries his name. Towards south and east summit rocks reach long scree and grassy slopes, falling deep in Vrata valley. Over these slopes the mountain is most easily reached.

Dovski Kriz is not a mountain for hard climbs. It is the Eldorado for scramblers and for mountaineers who enjoy in easy climbing. But by no means it is a mountain for non-experienced. Because of some tricky passages it is also not usual to approach high on the mountain with skis. Still, in good spring conditions Jug's couloir is appropriate for best skiers (it's a serious alpinistic ski tour).

Summit Views

 
View from Dovski Kriz
Triglav and its huge North Face

The most beautiful part of panorama from Dovški Križ is towards Triglav. On the other part of Vrata valley its huge north wall rises, stretching further towards the north walls of Begunjski vrh and Cmir. Great is also the view towards the central part of Martuljek group. There the wildest peaks are packed on a small territory. Just towards the N and NW the ridge towards the summit of Široka peč is very picturesque. Far on the distance we can view towards the north (Hohe Tauern, Gaiultal Alps, Nockberge, Niedere Tauern) and east (Karavanke, Kamnik and Savinja Alps).
 
Siroka pec from Dovski Kriz
Široka peč
 
Dovski Kriz S view
Martuljek group
 
On the summit of Dovski Kriz,...
Blue skies

Getting There


Martuljek group - main summits, access roads and marked paths.

The main valley to start thinking of Dovski Kriz Ascent is Sava valley. From Ljubljana you travel by highway towards NW, through Jesenice and further to Mojstrana and Martuljek. Through this valley also bus operates.

Dovski Kriz can be climbed from south and north. South approach starts in the famous Vrata valley, going from Mojstrana village to foothills of Triglav. The trailhead starts on Poldov rovt (meadow), some 2 km before Aljazev dom (hut). Less than 2 hours of walk from Mojstrana.

From north the trailhead is in the main Sava valley, in Martuljek.

Maps:
Kranjska Gora. Community of Kranjska Gora - Tourist map. 1:30000
Julijske Alpe - Vzhodni del (Eastern part). Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:50000.

Mentioning A Few Routes

 
In the upper part of Jug s...
In Jug's couloir

 
Below the waterfall. On the...
Above Vrata valley

Summer Routes


No route is marked, but some of them are just easy climbs:

1. South approach. From Vrata (Poldov rovt, 900m) to bivouac II (2118m) and to the summit. Easy climb, UIAA I. 4-5 hours.

2. North approach (Jug's Couloir). From Martuljek (750m) to bivouac III (1340m), to 3 macesni (3 larches, 1810m) and through Jug's couloir to the summit. Below ferratta and marked to the bivouac, from there on not marked, scramble, snow couloir (to 50 degrees), the summit rocks are UIAA I. 5 hours.

3. NE ridge. An interesting, but longer approach is over the neighbouring summit of Skrnatarica. From Vrata valley (Crlovec scree field) you climb the saddle between Kukova spica and Skrnatarica, through the East couloir climb Skrnatarica (50 degrees, UIAA II) and from there proceed by the main ridge to Dovski Kriz (UIAA I.-II.). Cca 7 hours.

By far the best combination is going up by #2 and descend by #1. This is one of the most rewarding mountaineering tours in Martuljek (for experienced mountaineers). See the detailed description of both routes.

 
The Bivouac No. II lies...
Bivouac II

One harder climb


Borut posted a fine picture (author: Tadej Golob) of the NW wall, in which there is a route called Megakamin, IV+, 150m, Golob, Kantušer, 2007.

Alpinistic Ski Tour


1. Jug's Couloir. Skiing is rated: IV-, sections are S4+, 500m (only the couloir part, below is an ordinary ski tour).

Red Tape

Martuljek region is the natural park.

When To Climb

The best months are in summer and autumn. In spring (if there is enough snow) you can do a hard skiing tour from just below the summit. In winter to climb Dovski Kriz you need a complete winter climbing equipment, but the ascent is possible.

Weather: see here.

Even better site is wunderground - here's the direct link to Kredarica station, 2515m (below Triglav summit).

Camping

[img:29576:alignleft:small:Bivouac II]
In Sava valley there are many huts and hotels. In Kranjska Gora, for example hotels: Lek, Larix, Kompas and many family hotels.
A few general facts for tourists and about camping you can find here.

Bivouacs II (6 beds) and III (8 beds) are maintained by Mountaineering Club Jesenice. Address: Cesta zelezarjev 1, 4270 Jesenice; tel.: (04) 586-60-70.

Images