As a mountain group Martuljek is certainly the most beautiful one in Julian Alps. Exhibited just above the main valley of Sava river it represents an ideal of a mountain harmony.
Peaks in Martuljek group are very wild. Julian Alps have been for decades almost entirely explored and on many peaks marked paths lead. But not in Martuljek. Although being the closest to renown tourist resorts, among high peaks only on Špik a marked path leads (and on Škrlatica and Dolkova Špica, which are not in a narrow Martuljek group).
Špik itself is an ideal of a sharp pyramid peak. Although not the highest in the group it attracts all views. Its 1000 meters high north wall seems unclimbable. But, as usually in the Julian Alps, the southern face is not so remarkable. This is where the normal route climbs up comfortably, only the last part is rocky and steep.
Being so prominent, in Špik north wall an important episode of rock climbing history took place. In 1926 the Direct Route (even now a solid UIAA 5th degree) was climbed by a young lady Mira Marko Debelak and her climbing partner Stanko Tominšek - an act which echoed loudly in the alpine world - it resulted in proclaiming of Mira Marko Debelak as the first woman overall to be a member of the prestige Great Britain Alpine Club.
Towards the east, Špik is bordering on the neighbouring Mala Ponca on Špikova škrbina (Špik Notch), which can be reached only by climbing (easy though). On the west, the first neighbour of Špik is the 2-headed summit of Frdamane police. Towards the south, a strong side ridge of Lipnica goes down in Krnica valley.
As the normal ascent route is not difficulty, the first climbers on top were unknown locals. Recorded is however the first ski descent from Špik:
> Tomaž Jamnik, Peter in Slavo Markič, Nejc Zaplotnik March 12th, 1978. Today the descent is rated III-, one passage S4.
Summit ViewDespite not being the highest summit in Martuljek group, Špik offers a very nice panorama. The view on Martuljek wilderness towards the east and south-east is stunning. Every single tower in the ridge from Rokav to Škrlatica can be seen. Škrlatica north face is just in front of us. Towards the south, across Krnica valley, two giants of Julian Alps are standing: Razor and Prisojnik. The view towards the west and the north is opened and we can distinguish many peaks of Julian Alps, Carnic Alps, Hohe Tauern and Nockberge. In a clear day also Dachstein can be seen.
Martuljek group - main summits, access roads and marked paths.
Travelling by the main valley of Sava River will bring you to Martuljek village. There, where the main road is crossing the river, is the most beautiful view on Martuljek group. Martuljek is also a trailhead for some marked (and non-marked) paths into Martuljek group from north. But they all end beneath high walls and only a few not so hard climbing passages are reserved for expert mountaineers. From north only a few peaks of Martuljek group can be reached by not climbing harder than UIAA 1st or 2nd degree.
The first marked path ascends from the road to Krnica valley and reaches the peak of Špik in some 4 hours. The second path starts at Koča v Krnici (hut, 1218m) and is less steep, because it crosses the summit of Špik's south neighbour Lipnica (2418m). Both paths join just below the summit rocks and then climb jointly to the peak.
To climb Špik's north wall you depart from Martuljek village. Two marked paths lead towards south into Martuljek National Parc. The first one follows the picturesque creek, the other one goes above it. They join at the lower Martuljek Fall and only one path goes on towards the alpine meadow. But already after 10 minutes the path divides again. You turn right following the path to Bivouac under the Spik (Bivak pod Spikom, 1424m). The other path goes by the beautiful Upper Martuljek Fall and reaches the Bivouac No. III (Za Akom, 1340m), which is important for climbs in other Martuljek walls.
Kranjska Gora. Community of Kranjska Gora - Tourist map. 1:30000
Julijske Alpe - Vzhodni del (Eastern part). Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:50000.
A schematic map of Špik.
From the west and south two marked paths ascend to the summit of Špik (see the map). They are both steep, on a few places secured with pegs, but not too hard.
1. Kačji graben route (west): It starts in Pišnica valley and climbs up a long gully up to summit rocks. Except the final, rocky part and a few rocky passages in the middle it can also be done with skis (a hard ski tour, rated as an alpinistic ski tour: Grade III-, one section S4. T. Jamnik, P. Markič, S. Markič, N. Zaplotnik, March 12th, 1978).
2. Lipnica route (south): The path starts at Koča v Krnici (hut), goes up the dry creek of Gruntovnica, then over scree and around the needle of Gamsova špica, 1955, up the ridge (steel ropes) to the summit of Lipnica, 2418m, a bit down to the notch and by summit rocks to Špik.
Classical ClimbsThe red numbers by route names are referring to the picture below.
East and North Face
1. Špikov graben in vzhodni greben (Špik Gully and the E Ridge), 46: III/II-I, 5 hours. First climbed by local hunters.
2. Direktna smer (Direct route), 50: V+, 900 m, 7-8 hours. The famous route first climbed on September 5-6, 1926 by M. M. Debelak and S. Tominšek.
3. Dibonova smer (Dibona route), 51: IV, 900 m, 5-7 hours. First climbed by A. Dibona and A. Escher, October 11, 1925. Variant of Dibona route: V+/IV, first climbed by B. Krivic and P. Potočnik, 51a, July 18, 1963.
4. Skalaška smer (Skalaška route), 49: V, 900 m, 7-8 hours. Picture from 1931 here. First climbed by P. Jesihova and J. Lipovec August 18-21, 1931.
5. Cizljeva smer (Cizelj route), 47: VI+/VI, 900 m(250 m hard), 10 hours. First climbed by J. Kaplan and J. Rada July 29-30, 1964.
6. Krušičeva smer (Krušič route), 48: VI-/V, 900 m, 12-14 hours. First climbed by J. Krušic and J. Šilar, September 25, 1949 (lower part) and J. Krušic, F. Novak and J. Šilar, August 10-11, 1947.
7. Varianta Dibonove smeri (Dibona route - variant): V, 400 m, 5 hours. First climbed by M. Cizelj, M. Dolinšek, E. Lettner and D. Vodeb, July 13, 1936.
Debelak-Deržaj-Šumer, 52: V, 900 m, 8 hours. First climbed by M. M. Debelakova, E. Deržaj and Ž. Šumer, July 5, 1931.
Red TapeNo limitations.
When To ClimbThe best months are in summer and autumn. In spring (if there is enough snow) you can do a hard skiing tour from just beneath the summit. In winter to climb Špik you need a complete winter climbing equipment, but the ascent is possible.
Weather: see here.
Even better site is wunderground - here's the direct link to Kredarica station, 2515m (below Triglav summit).
CampingIn Sava valley there are many huts and hotels. In Kranjska Gora, for example hotels: Lek, Larix, Kompas and many family hotels.
A few general facts for tourists and about camping you can find here.
The best option for a normal ascent is to sleep in Koča v Krnici (hut in Krnica valley, 1218 m).
Under the north wall of Špik there is a bivouac (1424 m). The keys are held by Mihaela Oman, Zg. Rute 24, 4282 Gozd-Martuljek, (04) 588-08-65 (Mountaineering Club Gozd Martuljek).
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