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E face and ridge - From Gulce pass
Route

E face and ridge - From Gulce pass

 
E face and ridge - From Gulce pass

Page Type: Route

Location: Julian Alps (Martuljek group), Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.45063°N / 13.85376°E

Object Title: E face and ridge - From Gulce pass

Route Type: Hiking, Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Climbing UIAA III

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: Bor

Created/Edited: Aug 8, 2004 / Sep 19, 2007

Object ID: 161750

Hits: 2276 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach

From Mojstrana in Sava valley, you drive (or walk) into the beautiful Vrata valley. Half way into the valley there's Koca pri Pericniku (mountain hut) and on the right side of the road Pericnik waterfall itself (10 minutes walk).
You proceed by the road and in the middle of the first steeper rise you will see a big scree (gravel), coming down from the right (from below Kukova spica on the left and Skrantarica on the right) ), like a river. This is called Cerlovec, in the upper part being a long ravine. There's a trailhead and also a parking place.

Route Description

You start by a big scree and on the right you see a path. If the water destroy the path here you will find it on the right a little bit higher. The path goes through a very nice forest in a big serpentine winding. This is not makred route but is often used so you haven`t got problems.

Soon you come on the top of forest where our route turns left (on the right goes route to the Vrtasko Sleme) where you cross the ravine Veliki Cerlovec. Then route traverses the S slopes of Kukova spica and comes to the start of small valley Gulce. When you see a scree coming down you turn right and scramble this scree to the top. Then you have an easy small wall to climb ( UIAA I).

After that you have another scree and soon you see a ravine on the left which comes from Skrantarica`s E face.

You scramble to the top of Gulce pass. On the right you can scramble to the Kukova spica. But you turn left and scramble to the nice wide grassy shelve. There you prepare for climb and then you enter into the wall. You climb a bit away from the E ridge.

When the wall finished you have 5 minutes to the top.

You descend by Normal route.





Essential Gear

Rope, helmet, and others things for climbing.

If you go down over the ravine in E face you also need crampons and ice pick.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

The valley of Gulce. On the...E face and ridge of...