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South ridge and slopes directly from Vrata valley
Route

South ridge and slopes directly from Vrata valley

 
South ridge and slopes directly from Vrata valley

Page Type: Route

Location: Julian Alps (Martuljek group), Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.45063°N / 13.85376°E

Object Title: South ridge and slopes directly from Vrata valley

Route Type: Hiking, Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Climbing UIAA III below the summit and hard orientation. In the descent UIAA II.

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Bor

Created/Edited: Sep 19, 2007 / Nov 17, 2009

Object ID: 338643

Hits: 2427 

Page Score: 76.46%  - 7 Votes 

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Getting There

The valley Vrata is accessible by car from Mojstrana village (12km), which is placed in the upper Savska Dolina valley at the end of Vrata valley (71km to Ljubljana, 13 to Kranjska Gora). You exit from the main road following the signs either to 'Mojstrana' or 'Vrata'. If you are using public transport you will have to walk up the Vrata valley from Mojstrana (2.30h).

From Mojstrana you drive (or walk) into the beautiful Vrata valley. Half way into the valley there's Koca pri Pericniku (mountain hut) and on the right side of the road Pericnik waterfall itself (10 minutes walk). You drive all the way over the macadam road. The trailhead starts in Vrata valley, on the meadow, called Poldov rovt (941m) where you park a vehicle.

Route Description

 
Martuljek group from the SE
Martuljek group above Vrata valley

 
After reaching the top of...
Just below the hardest part on the main ridge.

From Poldov rovt you take the west direction. Soon behind the meadow you will find a good hunters path, ascending through woods a bit more than 100 meters. You follow this path and in some switchbacks through the nice forest you reach a small ridge. Here is a crossing. The left route goes to bivouac II and you turn on the right one. You start ascending directly up over the steep ridge. Some meters highers is the nect crossing where you have to turn again to the right and then you follow a nice hunting route. We cross some ravines and soon we reach the grassy valley on the altitude around 1300 meters.

From here you turn in the north direction and directly over the best passages over the grassy and rocky slopes you ascend in the higher parts of the slopes. It is hard to describe the best possibility for an ascent. You must have good orientation for finding the best passages. Soon you reach the summit of Ticarica, 2072m. From the summit we descend some meters to the small saddle in the NW direction. From here we ascend directly up over the ridge to the upper face. From here we cross to the left and soon we come on the upper slopes.
 
In the couloir of...
In the east couloir of Skrnatarica.

When you come on the large upper south slopes of Skrnatarica the way is easy. You must reach the main ridge over the large grassy and rocky slopes. When you reach the main ridge you descend a bit to the notch where you see the steep east ravine. When you come to the top of ravine on the right you see the small 5 meters high wall with difficulty UIAA III. You climb it and you are on the top of Skrantarica.

The best possibility for descend is over the E ravine. Check the description over the normal route from Gulce pass.

Essential Gear

Rope, helmet, and others things for climbing.

If you go down over the ravine in E face you also need crampons and ice pick.

Images

Martuljek groupMartuljek group from the SEAfter reaching the top of...South slopes of SkrnataricaThe south ridge of...From the left: Dovski kriz,...In the couloir of...
Skrnatarica from route to the...Skrnatarica in Summer. You...The Gulce pass between...