Eaglet Spire : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

Eaglet Spire is the only free standing spire on the east coast. The Eaglet is awe inspiring in itself. Add climbing and it’s sure to be a fun day. The Eaglet was first climbed in 1929 by Lincoln O’Brien and Robert Underhill in May of that year. These routes contain loose rock, long approaches, and self- reliance.

Getting There & Getting Back

I-93 Franconia Notch State Park. Park at Connon Mountain Ski Area and take Greenleaf trail to a climber's trail/bush-wack to the start. Several rappels exist using 60m double ropes and sketchy fixed gear be prepared to back it up. Two fixed anchors exist at the top of the spire; one set on top and the other hung verticaly on the SW face(nice hanging rappel for a bit with this option!).

Red Tape

Falcon Alert

The Peregrine Falcon is a very fast flier, averaging 40-55 km/h (25-34 mph) in traveling flight, and reaching speeds up to 112 km/h (69 mph) in direct pursuit of prey. From its spectacular hunting stoop eyeing prey from heights of over 1 km (0.62 mi), the peregrine may reach speeds of 320 km/h (200 mph) as it drops toward its kill.

One source I read stated these birds are no longer endangered. I would still respect there nesting period or risk being dive bombed while on lead. Speaking from experience, although we did climb off season. The falcons didn't like us climbing their apartment building.

Camping

Lafayette Campground
Franconia Notch State Park
Franconia, NH
603-823-9513

Routes

It's tight on top.

1. The West Chimney 5.6
2. The West Face 5.8
3. Peregrine Arete 5.9+
4. Predator 5.10d
5. August Child 5.8 a4
6. The East Chimney 5.7
7. The Old Route 5.6

Additions and Corrections

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nartreb

I agree

Voted 7/10

More detail please - especially on the routes and approach.

How tall is the spire? More than one pitch?

Is it easier to 'whack straight up from the bridge, or to detour south to the old slides?

How can I recognize the starts of the various routes?

Anything special needed in the rack?

Any idea what it rates as an ice/mixed climb?

Posted Dec 18, 2007 3:59 pm

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