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East Face, 5.6-5.10c
Mountain/Rock

East Face, 5.6-5.10c

 
East Face, 5.6-5.10c

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Nevada, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.01944°N / 115.46861°W

Object Title: East Face, 5.6-5.10c

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Dec 12, 2008 / Feb 9, 2013

Object ID: 471328

Hits: 1369 

Page Score: 79.04%  - 10 Votes 

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 Overview/Approach

 
Windy Peak (East Face)
 

Windy Peak’s east face along with its much taller south face offer some of best unobstructed winter sun at Red Rocks. The east face makes for one of the better bad weather objectives at Red Rocks due to decent protection from westerly winds as well, something the south face would not offer you. It also sits at a much lower elevation and has a less involved approach. My reason for visiting the east face would be when suspect weather is upon Red Rocks. The best route on the east face hands down would have to be Diet Delight, 5.9, 4 pitches. A great route for trad lead learning is Jackass Flats, 5.6, 2 pitches.
 
Jackass Flats, 5.6
 Jackass Flats, 5.6
 
Diet Delight, 5.9
 Diet Delight, 5.9
 
Catch Highway 160 off of I-15 south of Vegas and travel west towards Pahrump. After several lights, you will pass the Highway 159 junction on your right, which leads to the Red Rocks Loop Road. There are several dirt roads on the right that will get you to the base of Windy Canyon. I used the direct approach which requires a high clearance vehicle. There is a dirt road on the right that runs right below a large cliff wall to its right that emerges from the desert floor. Turn right off of the main highway, curve left and then take the right fork as it descends via a dip. Follow this somewhat treacherous road as it leads due north. Turn left at the dead end and pull off at the 2nd right pullout. This is the preferred trailhead for the Windy Peak routes. You will be facing the east face. The 1000’ south face is quite a ways up canyon.

Descend from the trail head looking to gain a trail that eventually circumvents the obvious large pile of brown and red rocks to the right. Descend into a wash from there and attempt to pick up any number of faint trials, not that there really is an established one beyond wild burro trails, that lead up to the base of the east face. Diet Delight starts mostly center of the face up a short pillar to a thin crack in the middle of the largest clean face as seen on approach. To get to the base of Jackass Flats, you need to follow a bushy ramp from the base of Diet Delight as it gains 3rd class ground left. Don’t be sucked up too high on this scramble. Eventually you descend to the base of the chimney.

Route Description(s)

The Routes are Listed Left to Right as you Face the Wall

  • Bockade Runner- 100’- 5.8/


  • The Aid Crack- 140’- 5.10c/


  • Jackass Flats- 200’- 5.6/
  • The route basically follows a large chimney-like crack at the bottom of the east face as it curves sharply left and tops out right below the huge distinct roof on Windy Peak’s east face. It is a fun and sustained two pitch route for the grade, easily combined with other east face routes for a full day of climbing. Based on the bushy approach, it does not get climbed often. Joe Herbst and Matt McMackin put it up in 1973 and got their ropes stuck resulting in the name, “We felt like real jackasses!”. I originally thought the route got the name because Windy Canyon is home to wild burros.

  • Action by Knight- 300’- 5.10b/


  • Diet Delight- 380’- 5.9/
  • The 2nd pitch showcases the crux move of the route, but the fist pitch is more sustained for the grade. The crux move of the route is protected by a relatively new bolt (only fixed gear on Diet Delight in 2007). The last pitch is fun, but short lived and easy for the grade.

    Descent

    For Diet Delight you can scramble down an obvious gully to the west by scrambling up 50 meters or so and traversing left into it. A few cairns showed the way in 2007. For the rest of the routes, it takes a single rope rappel to sink into this gully to the west.

    External Links

  • Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, BLM

  • Red Rock Canyon Interpretive Association

  • DowClimbing.Com
  • Red Rocks

    Images

    Windy Peak (East Face)