I didn't notice this album until now! Technical question - what's the difference between a cam, a bolt and a piton??? It's nice to
have cams, bolts and pitons with you when climbing the Tetons, right? What is the STANDARD way a rope is attached to a rock for
rappeling down and (top-roping) up a rock face? Do you have a link you can give me, Melinda? I'm assuming that a climber can experience rockfall at any time of the year. Based on my travels in the Cascades, rockfall can happen on exposed slopes in the middle of the day, or even at night. Thus a good climbing "hardhat" would
come in handy, as well as good climbing shoes. I'm sorry I'm not
HIP to all the 'termology' that the younger generation uses. I was just hoping you could be kind enough to answer my questions. Thanks & good luck with the snow & ice adventures!!!
- Larry from AZ
It depends on what type of climbing you are doing. Sport climbing is primarily done on crags with a shorter approach. Bolts are located on the cliff and you clip your quickdraws in as you climb. There is usually a bolted anchor at the top where you can be lowered back down. This is also the type of climbing you would see at a gym.
Trad Climbing is short for traditional climbing. That is the type of climbing in the Tetons and other alpine mountain ranges. You place your own gear as you climb and build an anchor at the top of the pitch. Then you belay your partner up the route. It is always a good idea to wear a helmet. Even good rock can break or fall when you don’t expect it.
Natural anchors include trees, chockstones, rock horns, and boulders. Bolts are drilled into rock and provide a strong anchor. They have an opening where you can clip a carabiner and sling. When rappelling, the only thing you want to leave is webbing and rappel rings. This doesn’t cost very much and leaves little behind.
Passive protection is known as chocks, hexes, or nuts. They are used as wedges to fit into cracks and holes in the rock. Cams are a form of active protection. They are a spring loaded device with a trigger that makes them expand into different sized cracks. This type of gear is cleaned from the route so there is nothing left when you are done climbing.
Pitons are pointed metal spikes that are pounded into cracks with a hammer. Pitons were used as the original form of protection in rock climbing. They are used in aid climbing but only when necessary and there is no other alternative. Today, cams and nuts are preferred over pitons because they do not damage the rock.
That's a very comprehensive body of information. It will take me
awhile to develop a sufficient understanding of the modern-day climber. Those cams OR camalots are awesome! But, I assume
that a person's judgement of the individual conditions of a crag
or rock would be the KEY. I was interested in learning about
TRAD climbing, and how the climber can establish their own route and protection without having to depend on the SAR or Park Service to "pluck them" off the face of a mountain. I also know that most climbers are interested in saving money, and "CLEAN CLIMBING" seems to be the ultimate way to go. I can't understand why a person would want to carry a hammer or drill into the backcountry. The last time you were in the Tetons, did you notice a lot of gear such as bolts and pitons left in the rocks??? Well,
I've heard from some SP-members that certain ranges are being BANNED from using bolts and pitons. When I travel into the backcountry, WEIGHT is my major consideration! Besides, most of
the weight in my backpack is in the form of FOOD!!! To me, food always tastes better when it's consumed outdoors. Do you eat a lot of high energy power foods when you go climbing? I like to
take ramens and soups, because they are lightweight.(A lot of people might take a few bottles of beer and/or champagne or red wine, and I don't condemn them FOR doing that. They're the ones who gotta live with the hangover!) You have to be able to trust your climbing partner, at all costs!!! Thanks for
the information, Melinda!!! : - )
You appear to be an excellent typist and writer. I am aware of the
local and state laws of Utah, having grew up there in public schools. The City of Rocks seems to be a popular area here on
Summitpost. The closest I came was where the water comes out of the rocks, think it's Hagerman Falls. Also close by is Shoshone Falls on the Snake, and further southeast is Pomerelle Ski Resort
and Cache Peak. I have admired Cache Peak several times from the freeway; I would like very much to travel there again. It seems to be a scenic and very "laid back" place. Where is your Dad
from??? Did he grow up there in southern Idaho? I have a friend living in Mountain Home I need to visit. He used to be a campground host here in central Arizona. Was a former fighter plane pilot. How about Fred Beckey ... are you and your climbing group familiar with him? He must be in his eighties now. He put together some wonderful hiking & climbing books back in the 1980s. Okay, thanks for the valuable climbing beta, Melinda!!!
Decisions, decisions, the world is wrought with decisions!
I know for a fact I need to see my friend in Mountain Home, and
my wife and I would like to drive up to Stanley and see the Sawtooths. How is the snowpack up there in Southeast Idaho? I suppose it won't "melt out" until Memorial Day. The desert is going to come alive with wildflowers here next month, and I believe the Turkey Vultures return the first week of April.
Take care & thanks again!
There is a lot of snow this year. If you are just driving through and taking photos then Memorial Day should be no problem. If you plan to go hiking there will be snow at the higher elevations. You should definitely drive up to see the Sawtooths and some of the other mountain ranges around Sun Valley. There are plenty of low elevation desert areas in Southern Idaho that you should check out too. Send me a PM if you plan to go or this thread may never end :)
Thanks! You'll love Teewinot. By Teton standards, it has a short approach that is easily accessible for skiing. It has one of the smallest summits in the range.
about how the route literally changed in difficulty as a result of the collapse. Was it an earthquake or just a moment in time? That kind of stuff is baffling to our human sense of time. It happens in Yos Valley from time to time as you probably know. Just the ever changing nature of things. To us mountains seem so permanent. Like if you glance up at a cloud for a brief moment it appears static.
Thanks. I’m not sure what caused the east face to originally collapse. There is much loose rock on that route and I can see how it just tumbled down one day. The face is still quite steep. I imagine there were more difficult pitches of roped climbing on the route before its appearance changed in 1934.
I have seen changes in Yosemite Valley especially in the areas that were closed due to rockfall. I also see it in Southern Utah where sandstone changes and arches and other rock features collapse and are no longer there anymore.
lcarreau - Feb 10, 2008 4:26 pm - Voted 10/10
I'm sorry ...I didn't notice this album until now! Technical question - what's the difference between a cam, a bolt and a piton??? It's nice to
have cams, bolts and pitons with you when climbing the Tetons, right? What is the STANDARD way a rope is attached to a rock for
rappeling down and (top-roping) up a rock face? Do you have a link you can give me, Melinda? I'm assuming that a climber can experience rockfall at any time of the year. Based on my travels in the Cascades, rockfall can happen on exposed slopes in the middle of the day, or even at night. Thus a good climbing "hardhat" would
come in handy, as well as good climbing shoes. I'm sorry I'm not
HIP to all the 'termology' that the younger generation uses. I was just hoping you could be kind enough to answer my questions. Thanks & good luck with the snow & ice adventures!!!
- Larry from AZ
mountaingazelle - Feb 11, 2008 5:32 am - Hasn't voted
Re: I'm sorry ...Thanks Larry. Here is a LINK
It depends on what type of climbing you are doing. Sport climbing is primarily done on crags with a shorter approach. Bolts are located on the cliff and you clip your quickdraws in as you climb. There is usually a bolted anchor at the top where you can be lowered back down. This is also the type of climbing you would see at a gym.
Trad Climbing is short for traditional climbing. That is the type of climbing in the Tetons and other alpine mountain ranges. You place your own gear as you climb and build an anchor at the top of the pitch. Then you belay your partner up the route. It is always a good idea to wear a helmet. Even good rock can break or fall when you don’t expect it.
Natural anchors include trees, chockstones, rock horns, and boulders. Bolts are drilled into rock and provide a strong anchor. They have an opening where you can clip a carabiner and sling. When rappelling, the only thing you want to leave is webbing and rappel rings. This doesn’t cost very much and leaves little behind.
Passive protection is known as chocks, hexes, or nuts. They are used as wedges to fit into cracks and holes in the rock. Cams are a form of active protection. They are a spring loaded device with a trigger that makes them expand into different sized cracks. This type of gear is cleaned from the route so there is nothing left when you are done climbing.
Pitons are pointed metal spikes that are pounded into cracks with a hammer. Pitons were used as the original form of protection in rock climbing. They are used in aid climbing but only when necessary and there is no other alternative. Today, cams and nuts are preferred over pitons because they do not damage the rock.
lcarreau - Feb 11, 2008 2:27 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: THANKS...That's a very comprehensive body of information. It will take me
awhile to develop a sufficient understanding of the modern-day climber. Those cams OR camalots are awesome! But, I assume
that a person's judgement of the individual conditions of a crag
or rock would be the KEY. I was interested in learning about
TRAD climbing, and how the climber can establish their own route and protection without having to depend on the SAR or Park Service to "pluck them" off the face of a mountain. I also know that most climbers are interested in saving money, and "CLEAN CLIMBING" seems to be the ultimate way to go. I can't understand why a person would want to carry a hammer or drill into the backcountry. The last time you were in the Tetons, did you notice a lot of gear such as bolts and pitons left in the rocks??? Well,
I've heard from some SP-members that certain ranges are being BANNED from using bolts and pitons. When I travel into the backcountry, WEIGHT is my major consideration! Besides, most of
the weight in my backpack is in the form of FOOD!!! To me, food always tastes better when it's consumed outdoors. Do you eat a lot of high energy power foods when you go climbing? I like to
take ramens and soups, because they are lightweight.(A lot of people might take a few bottles of beer and/or champagne or red wine, and I don't condemn them FOR doing that. They're the ones who gotta live with the hangover!) You have to be able to trust your climbing partner, at all costs!!! Thanks for
the information, Melinda!!! : - )
lcarreau - Feb 12, 2008 11:19 am - Voted 10/10
Re: THANKS...You appear to be an excellent typist and writer. I am aware of the
local and state laws of Utah, having grew up there in public schools. The City of Rocks seems to be a popular area here on
Summitpost. The closest I came was where the water comes out of the rocks, think it's Hagerman Falls. Also close by is Shoshone Falls on the Snake, and further southeast is Pomerelle Ski Resort
and Cache Peak. I have admired Cache Peak several times from the freeway; I would like very much to travel there again. It seems to be a scenic and very "laid back" place. Where is your Dad
from??? Did he grow up there in southern Idaho? I have a friend living in Mountain Home I need to visit. He used to be a campground host here in central Arizona. Was a former fighter plane pilot. How about Fred Beckey ... are you and your climbing group familiar with him? He must be in his eighties now. He put together some wonderful hiking & climbing books back in the 1980s. Okay, thanks for the valuable climbing beta, Melinda!!!
lcarreau - Feb 12, 2008 1:46 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: THANKS...Decisions, decisions, the world is wrought with decisions!
I know for a fact I need to see my friend in Mountain Home, and
my wife and I would like to drive up to Stanley and see the Sawtooths. How is the snowpack up there in Southeast Idaho? I suppose it won't "melt out" until Memorial Day. The desert is going to come alive with wildflowers here next month, and I believe the Turkey Vultures return the first week of April.
Take care & thanks again!
mountaingazelle - Feb 12, 2008 3:07 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: THANKS...There is a lot of snow this year. If you are just driving through and taking photos then Memorial Day should be no problem. If you plan to go hiking there will be snow at the higher elevations. You should definitely drive up to see the Sawtooths and some of the other mountain ranges around Sun Valley. There are plenty of low elevation desert areas in Southern Idaho that you should check out too. Send me a PM if you plan to go or this thread may never end :)
skunk ape - May 3, 2009 11:14 pm - Voted 10/10
East FaceIve read this page twice now, I was looking for something new to ski in the Tetons and stumbled onto it again. Really good stuff!
mountaingazelle - May 4, 2009 2:39 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: East FaceThanks! You'll love Teewinot. By Teton standards, it has a short approach that is easily accessible for skiing. It has one of the smallest summits in the range.
Noondueler - Aug 24, 2010 12:47 am - Voted 10/10
Neat storyabout how the route literally changed in difficulty as a result of the collapse. Was it an earthquake or just a moment in time? That kind of stuff is baffling to our human sense of time. It happens in Yos Valley from time to time as you probably know. Just the ever changing nature of things. To us mountains seem so permanent. Like if you glance up at a cloud for a brief moment it appears static.
mountaingazelle - Aug 24, 2010 11:38 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Neat storyThanks. I’m not sure what caused the east face to originally collapse. There is much loose rock on that route and I can see how it just tumbled down one day. The face is still quite steep. I imagine there were more difficult pitches of roped climbing on the route before its appearance changed in 1934.
I have seen changes in Yosemite Valley especially in the areas that were closed due to rockfall. I also see it in Southern Utah where sandstone changes and arches and other rock features collapse and are no longer there anymore.