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East Rib
Route

East Rib

 
East Rib

Page Type: Route

Location: Oregon, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 32.84000°N / 113.91°W

Object Title: East Rib

Route Type: Scrambling

Season: Summer

Time Required: One to two days

Rock Difficulty: 5.3 (YDS)

Difficulty: 4/5th class scramble

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Mr. Clam

Created/Edited: Sep 21, 2007 / Sep 21, 2007

Object ID: 339489

Hits: 2444 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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Approach

The best way to access the east side of Eagle Cap is from Glacier lake via Glacier Pass. To get to Glacier lake simply follow the West Fork Wallowa trail (Directions to trailhead on Eagle Cap main page).

Route Description

East Rib Route
 

The trail heading North from Glacier Lake will take you to the top of Glacier Pass. From the top head west along the ridge toward Eagle Cap (this will be obvious). As the vegetation disappears and the grade steepens you will climb up some class 3 until reaching some vegetation just before a short vertical block. From here traverse south along the east face to the base of the east rib.

 
Vertical block
 


The east rib is the next rock feature to the south of the east ridge. Get on the rib via a wide Southeast facing ramp. The climbing is mainly 4th class with a few 5.easy moves. The rock is pretty solid but a fall near the top would definitely be fatal, use extreme caution and maybe even consider a belay.

This route offers a very fun alternative to the normal route and is one on the best ways to exploit what little granite we have here in Oregon.

Essential gear

I climbed this route solo so I was not looking for gear placements, however the rock quality is very good and I am sure there are plenty of options.

Images

Glacier LakeEast Rib RouteEast faceEagle Cap East RidgeVertical blockLooking down the East RibStart of East Ridge