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East ridge from Zabia Pass

 
East ridge from Zabia Pass

Page Type: Route

Location: Poland/Slovakia, Europe

Object Title: East ridge from Zabia Pass

Route Type: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: III UIAA; unusual expositon

Number of Pitches: 4

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: KRZYS

Created/Edited: Jan 3, 2010 / May 28, 2011

Object ID: 586456

Hits: 1277 

Page Score: 76.66%  - 7 Votes 

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Overview

It is the easiest route on famous Żabi Koń, classic Tatra Mountains climb. However, necessary is possession of climbing & protection skills and foundations of auto-rescue. This is a beautyful route due to wonderful vievs and great exposition.
First summer asscent has made by Zygmunt Klemensiewicz, Roman Kordys, Aleksander Znamięcki - 05.VIII.1907. In winter by Alfred Grosz and Tiobold Kregczy - 26.III.1913.
East ridge - red line
 

Approach

The shortest approach starts from Mountain Hotel Popradske Pleso (to check accommodation look main site Camping and Transport section). Go to the Žabia Dolina Mengusovská by the red trial (1h15min). From there turn on heap high under rock of Żabia Przełęcz (30min). Next slantwise right to the depression. From this depression go by gully and on the left to terrace in half of slope (25min). Next -hike up by next steep rock gully to place, when gully became a overhang. After it, go right by slabs to right branch of gully. By it, go up under vertical rock. Now left, by higher end of great slab. Next slantwise grass shelf few meters over lowest indentation of Żabia Przełęcz (20min). You can get here also from Morskie Oko, but the route is longer. Now you can see east ridge in all magnificence.
Small horse beginning
Start

East ridge description

Ridge has a 4 good constantly stances. From higher part of Zabia Pass (good rappel stance) 12 meters rappel to lowest part of Pass (first greatly exposed place). Next 40-meters, by Mały Koń (a Small Horse) -holding sharp bring- under 10m fault (easy and beautiful ridge fragment). 
Take out a runner
Take out a runner - Small Horse
Next on right slab and narrow crack on comfortable ledge. From there left on sharp ridge and by her on good stance. Next narrow edge of steep Górnego Konia (Higher Horse) several meters under almost vertical 3 meters rock step. Now climb on a step and next by ridge, which became border and border to the summit of Żabi Koń. (1h from Pass).
 
Near the summit
Last one pitch
Viev as far as the Morskie Oko
Viev at valley

Descent by West Ridge

Hurra! You have reached a summit. What's next? Go steeply, board ridge toward west. Now 10m free rappel. Next - or by sharp ridge to Zabia Przelecz Wyznia (Higher Zabia Pass) - or finding next rappels, by them under West Ridge rocks. Now via visible trial to Tylkova Pass. From there, mostly safety lower and lower to Valley.
 
Zabi Kon s West Ridge
West Ridge

 
Rappel - West Ridge
Rappel from West Ridge
Tylkova Pass
Tylkova Pass - Good way out from Zabi Kon

Essential Gear

 
The nut on the East Rigde of Żabi Koń
A nut

-Basic summer climbing eq - Rope (50m), harness, belay (+rappel) device
-About 10 runners
-nuts or/and friend set
-few loops
-helmet
-a pair of normal mountain boots
-a pair of climbing boots useful (mostly on lower horse)
-a crampons (if some old snow covers the route)

Dangers

The biggest danger is an unstable weather. Żabi Koń in a hard conditions becomes serious enemy. So... always check that before you will start a trip. Late summer is recommended time to attack summit.

External Links

Zabi Kon's climbing routes overview

Images

Rappel - West RidgeOn East ridge of Żabi KońViev as far as the Morskie OkoZabi Kon\'s West RidgeOn East ridge of Żabi KońAbseiling to Wyżnia Żabia PassOn East ridge of Żabi Koń
Żabi Koń and its East ridgeOn East ridge of Żabi KońEast ridge - red lineSmall horse beginningTylkova Pass