East Ridge

First Climb

By the route described: A. Jaquerod and M. Kurz with J. Gabiou, 2 August 1907. The upper section, reached from the A Neuve side, had been first climbed by J. Gallet with J. Balleys and A. Muller in 1901.

First Winter climb: J. Sanseverino, 4 February 1959.

Approach

From La Fouly go through L'A Neuve and reach a parking place at the end of the road leading into the Combe des Fonds. After crossing the river follow a track (to the W) to the cliffs that lie on the corner between Grand Lui and the Combe des Fonds. The path climbs to the top of these (fixed handrails) until at about 1.900 m one can cross the grassy slopes of Sur La Lys to the SW. Go around the base of La Maye to Point 2.150 m, then head up towards 2.731 m. The hut is situated on the moraine below this point. 2 h 30 min

Route Description

From the Refuge Bivouac de la Maye (or Dolent bivouac), ascend the Dolent glacier keeping close to the ridge. Either reach the ridge at a steep gap in the vicinity of Point 3.188 m, or higher, at a prominent shoulder, below the upper section of the ridge (1 h 30 min). Follow the ridge, on the broad glacier shelf to the right of the crest and climb directly up the final steep section (45º-50º) to the summit. 4 h 30 min from the hut.

Essential Gear

Crampons, ice axe and rope are necessary. Take also a compass, map and altimeter with you. There is really no safe approach to this hut in Winter.

Images

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