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4691 Hits
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75.08% Score
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7 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.67583°N / 8.52917°E |
Route Type:
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Mountaineering |
Season:
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Summer |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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AD, Rock to UIAA V (4c) |
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Overview
As 1 of the 3 classic ridge climbs on the beautiful Urner granite of the Salbitschijen, the East Ridge is a very nice climb in its grade. Although shorter and easier than the South and West Ridge, the East Ridge does not disappoint and it's a good starter a the beginning of the season. Since all the crowds focus on the popular South Ridge, there's a big chance to find yourself alone on the East Ridge, during high season and with perfect weather conditions as well.
The East Ridge was first climbed in the year 1925 by M. Hofmann, K. Meier and W. Weckert. It contains about 400m rock climbing up to 4c, A0 in about 15 pitches. Most pitches are climbed on the crest of the ridge. The crux can be found at the start of the 8th pitch, which is a steep slab. Either climb it artificially (using a bolt ladder) or make small pendulum using the first bolt on the slab to clip the second one more on the left, after which you can continu free climbing.
The route is described in Salbit erleben! by Hans Berger, Jonas Gessler and Jurg von Kanel.
At first start along the path which goes in the direction of to the base of the South Ridge. After a small descent continu in western direction and aim for a large gully (snow filled in early season) to the right of the East Ridge. Climb through this gully until you can see a distinct free tower on the left side of the gully. The first bolts can be found behind this tower.
Route Description
The route mainly follows the crest of the ridge and is in general well equipped. In some places additional protection can be placed if desired. All belays are in place.
L1: 3c - traverse left behind the tower a the base of the climb, then diagonally up left
L2: 4a
L3: 4b
L4: 4a
L5: 4a
L6: 3b - make belay at the end of this pitch or continu simul climbing to the start of L7
L7: 4a
L8: 4b/A0
L9: 3c
L10: 4a
L11: 4a
L12: 4a
L13: 3c
L14: 3c
After L14 continu simul climbing easy terrain to the junction with the normal route of descent in the North Flank. Either continu to the summit needle from here or descend directly.
Descent through the North Flank is marked red and quiet clear. Pay attention for loose scree or snow in early season. The path is quiet steep in some places.