hope lake trail from trout lake. leave trail at 11,500' and head southwest toward dam (north side) of hope lake. important landmark is hope lake pipe outlet and associated "rocket" shaped metal shed. when open, this outlet feeds the stream to the right (south) of the trail. approx. 300 yards past these structures is hope lake dam.
guidebooks refer very generally to the northeast ridge as the standard route. to be precise, the actual ridge ascent is up an eastern spur of the northeast ridge.
from dam, climb southwest over bumps and thru basins to just below east spur at approx. 13,100'. low point of east spur is obvious. follow ridge (good rock - 3rd class), or connect gullies to south (scree - 2nd class) to lower summit (approx. 13,500'). 100' cleft divides lower and true summit. descent to cleft is 4th class if you stay close to ridge. otherwise, suggest descent south on broken rock approx. 200' south then ascent of gully to cleft.
descent by ascent route or glissade down triangular northeast face (if snow).
early season - ice ax. sunhit on snow is sunrise, so leave early to avoid serious postholing.
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