OverviewThe guidebook designates this moderate two pitch route on the South Peak as a "highly recommended" route. It seems to have a little bit of everything and is quite fun. Besides the traverse at the bottom the route mostly follows a couple crack systems to comfortable belay ledges. There is at least one old piton and a couple trees on the route to suppliment what pro you bring with you.
Follow the directions to Seneca Rocks from the main page. This climb enjoys a very short approach. To arrive at the bottom of the route, hike up Roy Gap Road to the South End climbing area. This is quickest from the Visitor Center's southern parking lots. Just before the road crosses the stream, cross the stream yourself and
ascend the rock steps. You will be between two rock fins and EJ is located on the right which is to say the west side of the south peak in an area known as the Southwest Corner. It is above the first flat belay platform at the top of the wood steps although at least one variation starts from the platform.
Route: P1 (70 feet, 5.4)The route starts right from a switchback on the trail. There is a ten foot wall that needs to be surmounted to gain a broad ledge. Some groups just free climb the couple moves and set up the belay at a tree on this big ledge. Cross to the right side and then traverse across a foot wide ledge that passes through an otherwise fairly blank section of wall while the ground drops away. At the end of the ledge follow the crack system up to a big belay ledge.
Route P2 (80 feet, 5.4)
From the left side of the belay using a right facing inside corner and a crack system, climb up to the left side of a small roof. Pass the roof on the left and climb the face and wide crack to a "cave" and then the belay ledge.