Edge of the World : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

This is a great early season warm up climb. It sports 2 moderate 20 metre pitches of ice that generally form well. Given the easy approach and the spectacular views it is a worthwhile objective for the climber with little time or looking for a straight forward moderate climb. Occassionally some steeper ice forms to the left that can challenge you a bit more.

Of note, watch for recent heavy snowfall in the area. As the climbing is generally lower angle, snow can accumulate on the climb making it quite unenjoyable.

Getting There

From Jasper follow Hwy 93 south for about 6.7 km to the turn off to Hwy 93a on your right. Follow this for about 2.5 km and turn right following the signs for the Marmot Basin Ski Hill. Continue up the switchbacks for about 9.3 km to the second last switchback before the ski hill. Park on the side of the road.

Google Map From Jasper

Approach

From the road follow an old cutline straight north for about 0.5 km. This will bring you to the edge of the canyon. Work your way down to the left to the top of the climb and rappel down 2 pitches to the base of the climb.

Route Description

The Steeper Left Hand Side of the Top Pitch

From the base, the climbing is straight forward. Easier ice tends to form to the climber's right and as mentioned previously, there is the occassional grade 4 ice that can form on the left hand wall of the canyon on the second pitch.

Essential Gear

Typical Ice Rack.

Extra cordelette might be of use for belays on trees.

External Links

Some Mixed Lines at the Base

There are two great websites for ice conditions in the Canadian Rockies:

Gravsports-Ice

and

Live The Vision - Ice Conditions.