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Eldorado Peak Climber's Log

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ericwillhiteEast Ridge  Sucess!


Came in from the Forbidden Peak area ridgeline
Posted Sep 3, 2009 3:29 am

cp0915East Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2009


Car to summit in a day, then hiked out the next morning. Stunning summit ridge and stellar summit views. Would dayhike it without hesitation, were I to go again.
Posted Aug 2, 2009 12:33 am

brucegEast Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2008


Great climb with Mark Allen from International Mountain Guides. Thanks for the belay on the summit ridge!
Posted Jul 31, 2009 2:18 pm

Peak FreakEast Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2009

Peak Freak

Nice steep uphill trail hike, 2 boulder fields, more trail, snow, up and over a ridge, up a glacier to camp. Dance party at camp. Wake up at 5:00 to rain & a white out. Delay summit plans. Wake up at 7:00 to clear skies and off we go. Uphill glacier slog, followed by a spectacular summit ridge. Thanks, Ian, Ken & Magnus!
Posted Jun 30, 2009 1:24 am

TheRootsterWith the NOLSies  Sucess!


Socked in on top. Great 360-degree views of the inside of a cloud!
Posted Jun 23, 2009 12:37 am

lukicNW Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 31, 2009


Esugi and I climbed the route in a day and a half. Brought 4 screws, a picket, fluke, set of nuts, #2-.5 Camalots. Used all 4 screws, both snow pro, some small nuts and I think only the .75 but another party last week said they used more cams and no nuts. Great climb, but I don't think I'll be making that approach again anytime soon. A bit too much slogging for a bit too little climbing.
Posted Jun 2, 2009 1:09 pm

nickmechEldorado Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2004


Hiked up to meadows in very hot weather. Next morning crossed the glacier and climbed the ridge to summit. The pictures of the final ridge don't do it justice. It will make you pucker but it was a great climb. This mountain rocks!
Posted Jan 1, 2009 3:00 pm

lloydCool Summit


All I remember about this climb was the long,hot approach and the spectacular summit!
Posted Sep 7, 2008 4:56 pm

Karl HelserSteep...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2008

Karl Helser

Steep approach!, after that though, everything is beautiful. Did this with a couple of good climbing buds, Brian & Steve. Lots of running water and small bivy spots east side of the ridge between 5500' & 6000'. On summit day watched a thunder & lightning storm roll past hitting us with a couple of light showers, but not enough to turn us back. It turned out to be a great summit day. The bugs were bad from 5500' back to the car. I'm not one that likes switch-backs, but that approach could use a few at least...
Posted Aug 25, 2008 3:30 pm

Brian JenkinsEldoradone!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2008

Brian Jenkins

Finally! After failing 2 years ago due to a storm that blew in overnight (I know, it's common in this area.), finally tagged this one. Went with Karl and Steve and camped just before the ridge in the wonderful slabby meadows. Criss-crossed paths with a group of 9 Mountaineers from Seattle throughout the day. Great views and enjoyed a Caldera Pale Ale cooled in a glacial spring afterwards at camp. And of course, the traditional bacon cheeseburger at Buffalo Run in Marblemount afterwards. Incoming storms put a crimp in our plans to climb Liberty Bell the next day, or perhaps it was the 7000+ feet of elevation and pounding that boulder field gave me..........
Posted Aug 18, 2008 12:18 pm

DundeelIn Search of Eldorado  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2008


Climbed with a great Mountaineers group led by Ron R.. Camped in Roush Creek Basin on snow. Summitted via the East Ridge. A bergschrund near 8,400 ft but it was easily crossed on a large snowbridge. Heavy rain and poor visibility but a successful trip.
Posted Aug 12, 2008 12:04 am

Rick Huffeast ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2008

Rick Huff

Aside from mushy snow (post holing up to knees), the route was in great shape. Fantastic views! I climbed with my friend Rod Xuereb. After Eldorado we did the south face of Klawatti.
Posted Jun 24, 2008 12:53 pm

thundercloudEast Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2007


Tagged and bagged. River crossing out of the gate was adventurous and tricky! On the way back, I think we found the proper route across. What a sufferfest though. Spectacular scenery above tree line. Set camp up high at the base of the E Ridge, then toughed out the final bit (which was pretty easy and filled with bucket steps) and returned for good night, packing out the next day.
Posted Mar 23, 2008 7:56 pm

rpcEast Ridge  Sucess!


Shirley & I climbed this as a consolation prize after failing on primary objective. Beautiful area, beautiful camping. Snow arete really made the slog worth it.
Posted Nov 29, 2007 5:53 pm

DBakerW. Arete
Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2007


Went via the Western Arete. Brought a full Ice rack (overkill) and small rock rack (Small nuts, medium tricams, couple of Linkcams). More natural pro than I expected, bring plenty of slings!
Posted Sep 17, 2007 6:04 pm

PantilatEldorado Speed Record  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2007


4th time up Eldorado, this time in sub 5 hours roundtrip! My first time 4 years ago (2003) I did it in 10.5 hours rt and thought that was fast, I guess not anymore!
Posted Sep 5, 2007 6:54 pm

pkrebsEast Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2007


Very strenuous one-day climb. The views from this climb are some of the best I've seen. Route on the Eldorado/Inspiration glacier was in good shape with no major obstacles. Very slow going though on the talus fields between 3,700ft-5,300ft.
Posted Aug 25, 2007 4:04 am

IagosGhostEast Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2007


My very first alpine summit! Climbed with Alpine Ascents International. Incredible views all around. Great introduction to mountaineering although the approach was brutal for the tenderfoot. Skies were clear the entire time on the mountain except for the 30 minutes on the summit. The clouds and wind created a surreal, haunting view. Something I won't soon forget.
Posted Jul 18, 2007 1:08 pm

laurelEast Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2007


With a 12 person group from WAC (thanks for organizing, Andy!). Amazing weather! As we were going up to camp below the ridge, the clouds kept getting higher -- blue skies for summit day. We tried to do Klawatti in the morning and then traverse to Eldorado (in hindsight it probably would have been easier to follow the boot paths back to camp and back up to Eldorado).
Posted Jul 2, 2007 7:04 pm

PantilatEast Ridge  Sucess!


Climbed the East Ridge three times, once as a day trip, another time in a traverse to Austera, and another on the way back from Dorado Needle.
Posted Jun 20, 2007 2:09 am

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