Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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37.84050°N / 119.438°W |
Route Type:
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Technical Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.7 (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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4 |
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Grade:
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II |
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Approach
Same as directions on main Pennyroyal Arches page. Euphoria is on the left side of the large, central exfoliation, so aim for that before entering the woods.Route Description
There are several cracks that trend up and right on the left side of Pennyroyal Arch's large, central exfoliation. Euphoria climbs the second from the left .Pitch 1: 5.7. Follow the dark, dirty crack up and around a bend to the left (5.7) to a gear belay.
Pitch 2: 5.5. Continue up the crack, being sure to get in good gear. After reaching a small ledge, climb straight up 30' of unprotected 5.5 face to a gear belay just below a large flake. I originally led to the ledge, then ended up leading the runout with no gear between me and the anchor. Don't do that.
Pitch 3: 5.7. Lieback and stem up the excellent, clean flake (5.7) and into a corner above. This pitch is one of the best at the grade I've done in Tuolumne. Belay where it is convenient.
Pitch 4: 5.6. Continue up the corner, stemming and jamming, as the climb gradually eases off. A few feet of slab at the top bring you to a few trees that make excellent anchors.
Descent: Rap with two 60-meter ropes from the top of The Hump.
Essential Gear
I used a 60m rope on this climb, and was tempted into climbing longer pitches, which made me miss most of the better belay spots. However, two 60-meter ropes are necessary to rap Pennyroyal Arches.There are no bolts on this climb. The cracks accept gear very well. Take a set of stoppers and 1 each 0.5"-2.5" cams.
Martin Steiger - Jul 14, 2015 8:45 pm - Hasn't voted
EuphoriaThe rappel route goes all the way to the ground. The last rap is a free hang in space over the arch and it is about 100 feet to the bottom. The anchor for it is 130 below the third anchor next to a narrow depression near the lip.