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Euphoria

 

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.84050°N / 119.438°W

Object Title: Euphoria

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 4

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: ASteele

Created/Edited: Apr 22, 2005 / Sep 14, 2006

Object ID: 164726

Hits: 1177 

Page Score: 0%  - 0 Votes 

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Approach

Same as directions on main Pennyroyal Arches page. Euphoria is on the left side of the large, central exfoliation, so aim for that before entering the woods.

Route Description

There are several cracks that trend up and right on the left side of Pennyroyal Arch's large, central exfoliation. Euphoria climbs the second from the left .

Pitch 1: 5.7. Follow the dark, dirty crack up and around a bend to the left (5.7) to a gear belay.

Pitch 2: 5.5. Continue up the crack, being sure to get in good gear. After reaching a small ledge, climb straight up 30' of unprotected 5.5 face to a gear belay just below a large flake. I originally led to the ledge, then ended up leading the runout with no gear between me and the anchor. Don't do that.

Pitch 3: 5.7. Lieback and stem up the excellent, clean flake (5.7) and into a corner above. This pitch is one of the best at the grade I've done in Tuolumne. Belay where it is convenient.

Pitch 4: 5.6. Continue up the corner, stemming and jamming, as the climb gradually eases off. A few feet of slab at the top bring you to a few trees that make excellent anchors.

Descent: Rap with two 60-meter ropes from the top of The Hump.

Essential Gear

I used a 60m rope on this climb, and was tempted into climbing longer pitches, which made me miss most of the better belay spots. However, two 60-meter ropes are necessary to rap Pennyroyal Arches.

There are no bolts on this climb. The cracks accept gear very well. Take a set of stoppers and 1 each 0.5"-2.5" cams.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Euphoric Jennie