The Vision : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

The Vision

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Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 4

Grade: II

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Page By: ASteele

Created/Edited: Sep 28, 2006 / Sep 28, 2006

Object ID: 229977

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Table of Contents

Overview

The Vision is a high-quality slab and crack climb on the far left side of Pennyroyal Arches. The crux is a fairly well-protected friction traverse, but there are several runout sections of 5.9 friction elsewhere on the route.

Getting There

Approach as for other Pennyroyal Arches climbs, heading for the far left side of the cliff.

Route Description

Pitch 1: Climb a knobby crack on the right side of a pillar, then 15 feet of unprotected 5.8 slab to a bolted belay.

Pitch 2: Climb past three bolts on 5.9 friction to an easy left-facing corner. Belay with gear on a large ledge at the top of the corner.

Pitch 3: Crux pitch. Climb up and left from the belay across glacial polish. There is a rusty pair of bolts about 15 feet up from the belay; clip these and then traverse further left to a new bolt. After clipping this, head back up and right to the third bolt, which protects the crux traverse into an obvious crack. Climb the crack to an uncomfortable stance belay just before you switch into another crack on the left.

Pitch 4: Switch into the left-side crack and climb it (5.8 and easier) to the top of Pennyroyal Arches.

Descent: Rappel with two ropes (60m only) from a webbing-slung tree at the top of The Hump. Two more bolted rap stations lead to the bottom of the arches.

Essential Gear

Quickdraws, long runners, gear to 2".

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