Fantasy Ridge, 5.9, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

(Dow leading the 1st Pitch in above photo)

The Bookmark is a recommended destination to climb when busy weekend days are anticipated on the more popular routes located on the Book at Lumpy Ridge.  We found a winner in a climb named Fantasy Ridge.  Fantasy Ridge is located on the true west face of the Bookmark therefore offering morning shade until past noon in July.  Although the start looks stellar, a wide left facing crack corner, it is actually the last couple of pitches that offer the more interesting climbing.  I combined pitches one and two, as laid out in the guide, as well as pitches three and four completing the route in two 200’+ pitches.  The first and second pitch will not offer much rope drag if the pro is extended appropriately and the climbing is mellow on these two pitches.  However pitches three and four involve several roofs and the rope drag was hard to avoid for the last 80’ or so.  If I did the route again, I would not combine these last two pitches.  MP.com has this climb as PG13, but I do not see it.  It protected well from bottom to top in my opinion.

Hike from the trailhead as you would for the Book (all well signed and manicured trails as of 2018, this is over populated CO remember).  As you start to head up the hill following the signs for the book, stay with the main trail as it takes you up and left to the south face of the Bookmark.  Turn left and circumvent the Bookmark to its west face and start ascending the hill/wide gully on the west side.  Approximately half way up is an obvious left facing, left leaning and wide, C4 #4 sized corner crack.  This is the start of the route (photo).

Route Description

1st/2nd Pitches- 200’-5.9/ It makes no sense to not combine these first two pitches.  Climb the easy wide left facing corner (#3 and #4) until it is easy to pull over a flake and traverse right.  Climb easy cracks up to a lone bolt on the face above.  Traverse up and right (guide calls this face traverse 5.9 which is relativity soft for the grade) to gain a mid 5th crack system.  Belay below a triangular roof up and right.  There is no “alcove” as the guide suggests.  Do not go up to the left shoulder of the formation (where there is an alcove).

3rd/4th Pitches- 215'-5.9/ A competent 5.9 leader can combine these two pitches but the rope drag caused by placing ample pro would stump a leader at his/her limit.  Climb up to the left side of the roof.  The best pro is a bomber C4#.1 micro cam.  Make an exposed traverse right (high) reaching for the blind right facing corner and a hold out  in space (crux move).  Head up to the next roof and climb the finger traverse right and make a high step pull.   Traverse back left across the upper face to a finger seam right on the left arête (crux section).  Eventually pull up and over the finger seam onto small face crystals and traverse back right up to an intermittent alpine like right facing corner for a fun 5.9 finish.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Descend into the chamber to the east and step across and climb to the summit of the formation (5^th).  Rap rings (2018) take you down north into the west gully descent.  Locate one of two slung raps further down the gully for two raps total before reaching the ground. 

Essential Gear

70m rope to make it a potential two pitch climb.  Single to C4 #4.  If you are going to combine the last two pitches, double up on finger pieces.  Shoulder length slings for the wandering factor.  Route faces more west than south, so decent shade until noon in July.