Mainliner, 5.9, 5 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Somehow MP.com and the guidebooks want to call Mainliner 5.9.  Mp.Com also calls for five pitches, but we easily did it in four (one poster even referred to six pitches).  If there are any 5.9 moves on this climb they are few and far between.  This is the most nondescript route I have climbed at Lumpy Ridge to date.  They only interesting climbing I found was the opposing corners near the end of our second lead.  This short section offered some fun stemming and exposure.  For some reason there were a ton of fixed nuts on what  became our 3rd pitch (4th outlined below).  The descent off of Sundance is more time consuming than the Book but nothing more technical than 4th class scrambling.   There are plenty of slung trees as well if anyone in the party is uncomfortable with the scrambling.

The exact elevation gain from the trail head to Sundance is 850’.  I don’t normally give out such information for cragging areas, but the best altimeter is found in an alpinist’s brain and my partner was curious how close I could come so she mapped it on return.  I was off by 2’ or 3’ as I recall.  Hike the approach trail in front of the visible Lumpy Ridge objectives and head up the hillside on the right for the signed (2018) trail to Sundance, well beyond the signed trail for the Book.   Take the steep trail up to the base of Sundance and turn left.  Hike under a large roof (Turnkorner) to opposing dihedrals (the left facing one being tall and significant).  You can climb either one, but the right one (left facing) is more in line with the route. 

Route Description

1st Pitch- 115’-5.7/ Climb the left facing corner meandering on easy ground to a stance at mid height of a 70m rope. 

2nd/3rd  Pitches-230’-5.9/ There is only one move at 5.9 if even.  Head up and left via a crack system.  Then back right almost to the large left facing corner.  Then back left and up opposing corners.  Near the top, you stem the opposing corners to their terminus on a narrow ledge.  Move right and belay in the bottom of a finger crack. 

4th Pitch-150’- 5.9/ Climb the finger crack with one move if even at the grade.  There were three fixed wires as of 2018.  Climbing and steepness eases immediately after the move.  Continue up and right through an easy right facing corner.  Comfortable belay at the top.

5th Pitch- 100’-5.7/ I soloed up the wide left facing corner.  Place a C4#4 for directional at the top with extension for the 2nd and walk the narrow ledge to the right to a tree.  Belay off the tree.

Climing Sequence

Descent

Walk east to the notch between formations.  Hike north through the notch to where a broad vegetated gully is visible.  Descend 3^rd to 4^th class terrain through large trees to the gully.  There are multiple tree raps, but the competent party will more than likely just scramble down.  Scrambling maybe 200’.  Once in the gully, turn right and descend the climbers trail through berry bushes to return to your packs. 

Essential Gear

Single to C4#4.  70m rope to extend pitches.  A clean route vs anything in RMNP, helmets optional depending on comfort level.  Route has a good western tilt, can get it in the shade if you start reasonably early.  Haul approach shoes.  The steep ascent from the trail is 800’+, some might prefer poles.