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Feather Peak Climber's Log

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DebRoyce-Feather Col  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2016


Long solo day with great snow climb up couloir; made longer since the whole area is covered in snow. Fun Class 3+ to the summit with some dancing around snow fields to avoid post-holing boulder wells. Terrific summit views, but no register could be found. booo
Posted Jun 24, 2016 12:20 am

CameronGroundSW Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2015


Contoured across the south slope from Royce-Feather Col to the base of the SW Ridge at Feather Pass, after climbing Merriam and Royce. Fun scrambling on the ridge ranging from class 3 on up to 5 if you want it, I dropped down onto either side of the ridge in a couple places to avoid the harder parts. Descended the first chute west of the SE ridge, then down the NE side of the Col. A couple hundred feet down the chute is filled almost the entire way across with ice, mostly hidden under gravel/dirt, not a fun thing to run into without gear. Next time I'll pay closer attention when Secor says axe required. I was able to gingerly climb to and over the crumbly rock on the north side of the chute to dry dirt to complete the descent.
Posted Aug 11, 2015 1:15 am

Darren9North Ridge
Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2014


Sierra Mountaineering Club outing went on a recon here and climbed the start of the North Ridge, a mostly unlisted 5.5 traverse (except on mountainproject.com) but started counting spires too early and therefore got off route. Not wanting to be overly committed we found a way off by downclimbing. Both Feather and Royce are spectacular with what looks like to be five potential couloir / snow routes in addition to numerous rock routes. Will definitely be back.
Posted Oct 17, 2014 7:06 pm

mrchad9SE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2012


Fun scramble up the SE face after visiting Bear Claw Spire, Merriam, and Royce. Descended the same route and then down the couloir before traversing over to 12918.
Posted Aug 6, 2012 12:58 pm

Vitaliy M.SC 2010  Sucess!

Vitaliy M.

Dayhiked during Sierra Challenge 2010, along with 2 more bonus peaks.
Posted Jul 1, 2011 2:43 pm

kevin trieubeautiful back there  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2010

kevin trieu

day climb of Feather Couloir from Pine Creek TH in 16:20 with Cory Harelson. beautiful Royce Lakes and 4 pitches of ice. almost perfect, except for the hike out through the mind numbing switchbacks and through the woods to the car.
Posted Oct 1, 2010 5:30 pm

Bob BurdSE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2010

Bob Burd

Day 6 of the 2010 Sierra Challenge with a fine mess of folks. Trip Report.
Posted Sep 22, 2010 5:55 pm

Princess ButtercupTwice is nice!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2010

Princess Buttercup

First time up on June 12th w/ Ray Regalado via the Feather Couloir, camped at Royce Pass. Second ascent for me was Day 6 of the SC: perfect snow conditions in the chute between Feather and Royce made for fantastic front-pointing start to finish. I've never run up a chute like this before! Fun class 3 to the summit but watch the loose rocks.
Posted Sep 2, 2010 11:01 pm

DariaNice peak  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2010


Sierra Challenge day 6. The peak looks impressive upon the approach with steep vertical walls. Snow chute was the crappiest and crampons would not stick. Otherwise, cool little scramble and newly Sierra Challenge placed register. Tremendous exposure from the summit. Continued on to get Bear Spire and Bear Claw peaks.
Posted Aug 15, 2010 8:56 pm

Rice ClimberFeather Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 13, 2010

Rice Climber

Nice spring conditions in the couloir. The descent down the SW Chute was SKETCH!! Snow over slab! Six rappels got us down to the bottom of the chute and the top of the East Couloir. It would have been way better to descend the Feather (North) Couloir.
Posted Jun 23, 2010 5:48 pm

haishanFeather couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 27, 2000


Cushy spring conditions in couloir, enjoyable scramble at the top
Posted Mar 31, 2010 9:25 pm

granjeroFeather Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 15, 2005


Highly enjoyable climb, especially topping out with mind boggling views. Ski descent was delightful.
Posted Sep 8, 2009 6:21 pm

seanoFrom Royce  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2009


Awful descent off Royce, but the righthand chute/ridge was nice class 3. No register. Returned to Pine Creek via Royce-Feather saddle, and needed my axe. Just under 10h car-to-car for Merriam-Royce-Feather from Pine Creek.
Posted Aug 27, 2009 9:27 am

SonnyFeather Couloir left side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2007


Very good ice on the route except for the first pitch which was brittle. Six pitches with a 60m rope. We ended up rapping back down the couloir via V threads backed up with cheap Russian ice screws and two rock horns we were able to sling. We camped at Royce lake and the entire route took 13 hours tent to tent. The day prior we hiked 9 hours to get from the Pine Creek trailhead to Royce lake. After climbing the couloir we spent the night again at Royce lake and the next morning hiked 4 hours back to the car (in a snow storm).
Posted Oct 6, 2007 12:31 am

physicsRoute Climbed: Feather Couloir Date Climbed: Sept 9, 2007  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2007


After quickly soloing the Merriam-Feather Col couloir the previous day with ttriche, we both climbed the Feather Couloir to the summit in 7 hrs r/t from camp between the upper two lakes. Simul-climbed the route in two picthes with 7 screws and a handful of nuts. Bottom of the couloir was air-filled-ice and the top was harder dinner-platting ice. Not too steep but still fun. The walk out killed me and my feet.
Posted Sep 12, 2007 3:04 pm

derbillyFeather  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2007


Up southwest ridge, down south slope. Started at Medley lakes, climbed Seven Gables and headed by Vee Lake to Feather Pass to Feather then returned via Seven Gables Pass.
Posted Sep 5, 2007 3:08 am

forjanFeather Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2007


Swapped leads with Brad Mastros. 6 pitches total with a 60m rope: Brad took the odd pitches and I did the even ones. We ascended the climber's left side of the couloir as the right side was dirty and littered with rock fall. The condition of the couloir itsef was neve transitioning to ice (there were ice patches for an 2-ice screw belay). Horrendous descent via the east face; had to sacrifice gear to rappel. Camped at the east shore of Upper Royce Lake (11,725'). Camp to camp just over 11 hours. Back at Pine Creek T/H by 10pm. Home in LA by 3am Monday....just another weekend in the Sierra.
Posted Aug 27, 2007 1:38 pm

Brad MastrosFeather Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2007

Brad Mastros

Miguel Forjan and I climbed the Feather couloir as an overnight trip. The route which was a mix of neve and ice was six pitches and outstanding. The decent took longer than expected due to ice that would not hold a v-thread and tons of loose rock.
Posted Aug 27, 2007 12:40 pm

Pantilatsoutheast slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2007


Climbed southeast slope from Feather-Royce saddle as part of Merriam-Royce-Feather traverse/dayhike. I found this route to be quite fun, especially the final couple hundered feet on class 3 slabs. The gravel in the gully was perfect for plunge stepping on the descent. 11 hr, 21 min roundtrip for the dayhike from Pine Creek trailhead. Beautiful weather and area!
Posted Jul 25, 2007 8:10 pm

dervinFeather Peak
Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2007


Garth, and I did another death march up this one, and not by intention. Good, long day.
Posted Jul 6, 2007 9:20 pm

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