Nearest higher peak: Frauenköpfl (3251 m)
But Fernerköpfl is a good destination in itself, too. It has a wonderful panoramic view on the large glacier called Rieserferner/Vedretta di Ries. And you can do an exercise on a shot but intensive via ferrata northwest to the main peak.
Fernerköpfl is in the point where three ridges of the Rieserferner Group meets: the ridges connecting the peak Schneebige Nock to northwest, the peak Magerstein to the east and the peak Gelltal-Spitze/Cima Valfredda to southwest. The building material of Fernerköpfl is phyllite with quartz layers. It gives a gloomy brownish-grey atmosphere for the hill. There is no vegetation on Fernerköpfl. It is a pile of bare rocks. In sunshine this gloomy atmosphere is released on the peak by the bright view of the large glacier field.
You can ascend the peak from 3 directions. From Rieserfernerhütte and from Schneebige Nock the peak can be reached on marked path, while from Magerstein it can be approached on a path that is not marked, but it is intensively used by mountaineers.
The routes from Schneebige Nock and from Magerstein is well described on the excellent pages created by Vid Pogachnik and by Lupino.
Nevertheless the simplest route to ascend Fernerköpfl is from southwest, from the Rieserfernerhütte. This mountain hut is on an elevation of 2791 m. From here it’s only a 2 km ascent to the peak, without any technical difficulty, with a well marked path, constantly on bare rocks. This path passes by the peak of Gelltal-Spitze. No path goes up to that peak.
Rieserfernerhütte can be approached from 4 directions. The two easiest ascends are southeast, from Antholz/Anterselva or from northwest, from the valley Reintal/Valle di Riva. Both routes have a waterfall along the path.
If you start your route from Antholz, your starting point will be approximately on 1460 m elevation. The climb up to Rieserfernerhütte is a steep climb on a path with neverending zig-zag in the hillside.
If you want to start your route from the valley Reintal, driving up the valley you can find a parking place on the left side of the road, 2 km before the village Rein/Riva di Tures. The parking place is free. From the parking place walk a few hundred meters down the valley. Turn left (southeast), cross the small river on the bridge and ascend the steep and beautiful valley called Gelttal/Valfredda. The bottom of the valley is on elevation 1525 m. The first section of the valley is really steep. The mid section gives some rest for the climber. The last section is again steep before reaching the pass where Rieserfernerhütte is. On this route the mountain hut is approximately in 7 km distance from the parking place. This route is also used as the route of a regular mountain-running contest.
Northwest to the peak you can do an exercise on the short but intensive (C/D category) via ferrata, leading up to a tower that is between the peak of Fernerköpfl and the saddle (3203 m) separating Fernerköpfl and Schneebige Nock. The via ferrata is fixed on a vertical wall of 60 m.
Red Tape / When to Climb
No permission and no fee must be paid. Nevertheless it’s within the Rieserferner-Ahrn Nature Park and its regulations must be kept.
When to climb: In July-September. No special equipment is needed for reaching the peak Fernerköpfl.
Weather forecast is here.
Moutain Hut and Campinghere.
For the Camping Antholz in Antholz/Anterselva website click here.