Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.60700°N / 12.93091°E |
Route Type:
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Hiking, Mountaineering, Sport Climbing, Scrambling, Via Ferrata |
Season:
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Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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Very hard modern ferrata. |
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Rating the Route (By Hiking Standards)
The grading system for hiking and scrambling routes is here.0. General: From 1360m to 2238m, exposition west. A modern hard ferrata. A protection is needed. Only for good climbers, some parts are very hard. The whole ferrata is very airy.
1. Effort: cca 900m, 3h.
2. Power: 4 - Hard ferrata.
3. Psyche: 4 - Exposed, some parts can be tricky.
4. Orientation: 2 - Easy.
Getting There
View to the towers of Creta di Collinetta / Celon, 2238m from the east side.The starting point is the pass Passo di Monte Croce / Plöckenpass. Here is also a big parking place where you leave your vehicle.
From the North
There are two possible roads:
* From Kitzbühel over B108 through the Felbertauern Tunnel to Lienz, then southeast to Oberdrauburg and Kötschach-Mauthen (B110), where you turn to direction Plöckenpass / Italy.
* From Salzburg along motorway A10 to Spittal. Turn west on B100 to Oberdrauburg, there south to Kötschach-Mauthen were you stay on B110 to the pass Passo di Monte Croce / Plöckenpass.
From the South (Udine)
Take Motorway A23 to the exit Camia Tolmezzo. Follow SS52 north to Tolmezzo where you turn onto SS52 bis. This leads to the pass Passo di Monte Croce / Plöckenpass.
Route Description
The face where goes the ferrata Sentiero senza confini / Weg ohne Grenzen.
Through the steep tunnel.
Through the steep tunnel.From the parking place you must cross the border and on the Austrian side you must find the start of the route. The route starts on the right side, before the start of gallery where the main road goes. Here is also a parking place.
First you walk through the forest and soon you come to the first crossing. Here the right possibility goes to the east slope of Creta di Collinetta / Cellon and over the steep east slopes and face to the top. This route is much easier then a ferrata. It has only some secured parts. But we turn to the left on the crossing and soon we come to the start of the tunnel. The tunnel is 180 meters long and when you come out from the tunnel you will be 120 meters high else on the start of the tunnel. be careful in the tunnel because it is really very steep, secured with iron cable, on some places almost vertical! But it is a big adventure to ascend through.
When you come out from the tunnel you have to cross some grassy and rocky slopes to the second crossing. Here comes the marked route from the south side. You can also seethe vertical face where the ferrata goes. You can also go to the north over the east slopes to the marked route that start from the first possibility and from there to the summit if you recognize that ferrata is too hard for you.
The vertical plate.
At the top of vertical plate.So ferrata start first easily over the very steep face. But over the 20 meters you come on the almost vertical plate. with help of iron cable you climb it. On some places you must climb only with friction. Really hard place and it is high around 200 meters. Now when you climb the first section you continue over the very narrow and airy ridge well secured with iron cable. On some places you have to climb also over some vertical passages. Be careful there!
When you reach the last tower you come at the end of ferrata. Here you descend a bitand you come to the normal approach. A bit further also comes the possibility over the east slopes.
Now you have to reach the main summit over the upper south slope in many switchbacks. You will see many military bunkers. On the summit is a big cross.
You descend by the normal approach.