Float Like a Butterfly (Land Like A Toma

Approach

From the parking area at the south end of lake willoughby head uphill directly toward the Twenty Below Zero Gully Area. Float Like a Butterfly is the massive flow around a narrow buttress to the left of Twenty Below Zero.

Route Description

Pitch 1: Climb thin easy ice up to a short vertical crux about 20' long. Continue for another 120' on 60 degree ice to a belay stance. WI4 200'

Pitch2 : Pick one of any number of lines up the massive flow above. Typically, there will be 60-80' of WI3/3+ up to a WI 4+/5- 50' section. 90' of easy ice above gets you to the trees. This pitch can be as easy as WI4 if you pick the right line or as hard as WI5. WI4+ 200'

Descent : Rap 200' off trees at the top and set a Vthread for another 200' rappel to the ground or walk uphill and right to the descent trail which brings you to the base of the tablets.

Essential Gear

A typical willoughby column rack of 9-10 scews will suffice however, some shorty screws should be taken to protect the initial thin sections.

Equipment for vthreading if you plan to rappel.

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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