From the parking lot at the south end of Lake Willoughby look for the obvious massive flow of twenty below zero in a shallow right facing corner. Head straight up through the woods to the base of the flow.
Pitch 1: Climb 60 degree ice interspersed with short 20' vertical sections up to a flat ledgy section of ice which you can belay on. WI4 200'
Pitch 2 : a rope stretcher to the trees up a vertical corner with stemming on the left or up vertical pillars on the right. Your choice but the right side is harder. WI4+ 200'
Descend by rapping the buttress to the left in two long rappels. The second rappel may require some downclimbing without a rope. A safer option is to rap to a vthread placement at the first belay and thread off or walk down the trail up and right at the top to the base of the tablets.
A typical wiloughby column rack will suffice (9-10 screws)
A 60m rope allows you to do this climb in 2 pitches (barely).
Bring Vthread tools and webbing to rap or walk off.
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