Approach
From the parking lot at the south end of Lake Willoughby look for the obvious massive flow of twenty below zero in a shallow right facing corner. Head straight up through the woods to the base of the flow.
Route Description
Pitch 1: Climb 60 degree ice interspersed with short 20' vertical sections up to a flat ledgy section of ice which you can belay on. WI4 200'
Pitch 2 : a rope stretcher to the trees up a vertical corner with stemming on the left or up vertical pillars on the right. Your choice but the right side is harder. WI4+ 200'
Descend by rapping the buttress to the left in two long rappels. The second rappel may require some downclimbing without a rope. A safer option is to rap to a vthread placement at the first belay and thread off or walk down the trail up and right at the top to the base of the tablets.
Essential Gear
A typical wiloughby column rack will suffice (9-10 screws)
A 60m rope allows you to do this climb in 2 pitches (barely).
Bring Vthread tools and webbing to rap or walk off.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Luc - Mar 25, 2013 10:43 pm - Hasn't voted
First AscentHenry Barber, Michael Hatrich, Al Rubin, January 1974