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Page Type: Route

Location: Sondrio - Bregaglia, Italy/Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.29490°N / 9.59620°E

Object Title: Gaiser-Lehmann

Route Type: Rock Climb

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: TD-

Grade: V

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes


Page By: Lorenz

Created/Edited: Mar 23, 2004 / Jun 13, 2007

Object ID: 160516

Hits: 6331 

Page Score: 74.74%  - 5 Votes 

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Sarting from the Swiss village called Bondo you can follow the unpaved road (fee to be paid at road start) till its end where it starts the trail for the Sciora hutte and Sasc Foura' hutte. The former can be reached in 2:30 hours, the latter in about 1:30 h. There is not big difference starting the approach of the day after from one or the other.

You might leave the refuge at 4 AM along the famous Vial trail. This trail connects the Sciora and the Sasc Foura' refuges traversing just under the magnificent north walls of Piz Cengalo and Piz Badile.
In about 2 hours you reach the base of the small glacier at the feet of the NE wall of Piz Badile. Here you wear the crampons and start to walk on the glacier slopes. In half an hour you reach the base of the NW pillar of Piz Cengalo where the Gaiser Lehmann route starts.

Route Description

The Gaiser Lehmann route can be divided in two parts: the first 200/300 meters are on broken and often wet rock. This is not the most beaufitul part of the ascent and it's here that the risks to loose the right way are very high.
The second part (the remaining 600 meters) are on the best granite rock of the valley. Very compact slabs, never hard to be climbed, never athletic.

The Gaiser Lehmann route is a super classic climb, very complete due to the long approach part of which is on glacier. Be prepared to climb with very few pitons in place.

If you think to climb this route you definitely have to get a detailed topo. The picture on the left shows more or less the way. The one on the right can be clicked and shows the area more in detail.

       NW flank of Pizzo Cengalo

See other pictures here Climberland

Essential Gear

light crampons mandatory, ice tool not mandatory. Two ropes, a complete set of cams and stoppers. Some pitons are recommended too.
And all the usual personal equipment for a rock route of almost 900 meters

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


Climbing the Gaiser Lehmann...Piz CengaloNW flank of Pizzo CengaloGaiser-Lehmann route