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Pizzo Cengalo

Pizzo Cengalo

Pizzo Cengalo

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Sondrio - Bregaglia, Italy/Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.29490°N / 9.59620°E

Object Title: Pizzo Cengalo

Activities: Trad Climbing, Big Wall

Season: Summer

Elevation: 11046 ft / 3367 m


Page By: Lorenz, Gabriele Roth

Created/Edited: Mar 5, 2004 / Jun 13, 2007

Object ID: 152386

Hits: 17589 

Page Score: 86.85%  - 23 Votes 

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This is the second as height but the biggest rock structure in the whole Masino-Disgrazia Group.
Its north wall (on Bregaglia valley) is the highest wall (1300m) of the Retic alps.

On the italian side it has a ice cap covering in part its west side and 3 very fine ridges that make it characteristic.
Its normal route is not difficult but requires some mountain skill as it requires rock and snow climbing.

Routes overview

North wall the highest and most impressive wall
  • NW pillar (Gaiser-Lehmann) TD - as fine as the NE wall to Piz Badile - 700 m + final ridge (WSW) -- (more pics from Lorenz)
  • NNW wall (Schnitzler-Schocher-Borghese) - the classic - D - a big wall and a grand course - looks like a Mont Blanc Group classic
  • NNW wall (Rusconi-Seinkotter-Tessari-Fabbrica) - few infos on it
  • NNW wall eastern pillars - (Kasper-Koch) - ED - 600 m to get the classic route

    East ridge - (Bonacossa-Prochownick) - D - 250 m - fantastic rock and climb

    South-east wall
    on this wall many routes and variants, difficulties starting from AD sup : the most important are the Bonacossa-Polvara and the via Chiara (Gugiatti)

    South ridge 2 different possibilities on this ridge :
  • via Vinci - TD - the finest climb you can make starting from Gianetti Hut --(more pics from Lorenz)
  • via Bonacossa - D - this route goes round the Vinci route avoiding the main difficulties

    South-west wall this is a wall that ends, after about 150m on easy rocks under the normal route, some routes on this wall can be used if you find Vinci route too difficult.
    On this side some secondary towers (Selene and Sinistra) can be used for sport climbing

    WSW ridge
    the normal route - F or PD - snow and rock - wonderful views

    some climbing pics

    Gaiser Lehmann (NW pillar)
    Vinci route (S edge)

    Getting There

    Northern side : val BREGAGLIA - can be reached by car from Milan (SS-36)
    - Milano - Lecco - Chiavenna .... Malojapass : along this route you can enter the Val Bondasca

    Southern side - VALTELLINA - can be reached by car from Milan (SS-36)
    - Milano - Lecco - Colico .... Sondrio : along this route you can enter the Val Masino

    starting points :
    - Ardenno - bagni del Masino - for Val Porcellizzo (Italy)
    - Bondo for val Bondasca (Switzerland)

    - rif Gianetti (val Porcellizzo) 2534m
    - rif Sasc Fourà (val Bondasca) 1904m
    - rif Sciora (Val Bondasca) 2118m

    Red Tape

    no problems

    When To Climb

    south-east side can be ready to climb in june (coming down could be a little complicate)
    all other sides from july to september
    beware of bad weather, very dangerous on this summit just as on the near Piz Badile


    no need, 3 confortable huts give you the possibilities you need.

    External Links