OverviewGaladriel is a very homogeneous sportclimbing route on the South face of the Kirchlispitzen, to be more precise: on the South face of the 5th Kirchlispitze (2428 m). The Kirchlispitzen are known for there several hard climbing routes on the South face, which offer magnificent steep climbing on very nice limestone. The route is located in the Rätikon, which is a paradise for ambitious climbers.
Galadriel is a modern route, it is perfectly equipped with good bolts, so there are almost no dangerous run-outs possible. The route is also equipped for rappeling down. This way you can leave your pack at the start and focus on the climbing. You need to be able to tackle the difficulties, because there's no chance in aid climbing. The free difficulty is obligatory. The route is almost 400 meters long, divided over 11 pitches.
First ascent: V. Luck, B. Bardill, M. Luginbühl, A. Lietha 8th of Oktober 1992 (pitches 1-8). The 3th and 11th July 1994 they added pitches 9, 10 and 11 and completed the route.
Getting ThereTo Grüscher Alp (Switzerland)
Follow a very steep and narrow road to Schuders (cross the famous Salginatobelbridge). The road continues after Schuders (no tarmac, information in the only restaurant in Schuders about toll/acces!), towards Grüscher Alp. Just above Grüscher Alp there is a small parking and a cosy mountain hut. The perfect starting point for those who want to climb the South face routes!
To the Schesaplanahütte (Switzerland)
In general you'll start in the Prättigau area. Seewis and Fanas are located near Schiers, which can be easily reached from Landquart or Klosters via the N28 or by train. All the acces paths are well marked.
1. Fanas, about 3,5 hours
2. Seewis, about 4 hours
3. Malbun (Liechtenstein) via Pfälzer-Hütte, about 6 hours
To the route
Basicailly you need to hike along the Prättigauer Höhenweg, which passes just beneath the South Face. Head east (direction Cavelljoch) from the Schesaplana Hütte. From the Grüscher Alp go north (direction Schweizer Tor) and turn left before the Schweizer Tor. From the Prättigauer Höhenweg you can already see the start. Just scramble your way up to the base of the South face.
Route DescriptionRoute finding isn't very challenging. You can allways spot the next bolt quite easy. The start (marked with a bolt) is just right of a white rock.
Ascent: Galadriel, 395m, VIII- (VIII- obligatoire/obligatory)
1st Pitch - 48m - 5.10a/VII-: Head straight up by climbing a few steep steps and head slightly right after the third bolt. A good warm up pitch.
2nd Pitch - 35m - 5.10b/VII: Climb the steep crack and exit it right. Then head more left, a bit longer a distance between the bolts.
3rd Pitch - 35m - 5.10c/VII+: A very nice slab. Just follow the bolts and enjoy the climbing.
4th Pitch - 50m - 5.8/VI: The easy pitch to stretch the muscles a bit.
5th Pitch - 45m - 5.10a/VII-: Quite a nice start but getting gradually more difficult towards the end of the pitch.
6th Pitch - 25m - 5.10b/VII: Go right after the second bolt, and look for the best solution to head back left a few meters higher, not very easy.
7th Pitch - 20m - 5.10c/VII+: A short but challenging pitch! Especially the last, small overhang, is tricky. After the crux head right along a crack to reach the belay.
8th Pitch - 45m - 5.11b/VIII-: The official crux pitch. Long and demanding, especially because of it's lenght. The last meters to the belay are not so obvious, look carefully for the right solution.
9st Pitch - 25m - 5.10a/VII-: A short traverse. It's strange to switch to horizontal climbing movements, so don't underestimate it.
10th Pitch - 45m - 5.10c/VII+ A1 (or 5.12a/VIII+ free): Maybe the hardest pitch! First use the rope to get to a tiny ledge (two meters below), or free 5.12a/VIII+! Then traverse right. Head more or the less straight up (slightly right a few times) to the next belay, which is feels very hard.
11th Pitch - 20m - 5.8/VI: A short, easy and enjoyable last pitch of the route.
Descent: Don't rappel down your route at first! The first rappel goes left (West) into a gully and over ledges (stay close to the face!). Then a second short rappel slightly right (West) to reach the 8th belay of the route. Then just rappel along the route.
Essential GearClimbing gear
Normal sport climbing gear: climbing shoes, chalk, helmet, at least 10 quickdrawns (I would take 11 or 12), double rope (2 x 50m) and enough water (south face!).
Map 1:25 000:
- SAC Map: 1156 Schesaplana
- SAC Map: 1157 Sulzfluh
- SAC Map: 238 Montafon
- Topoguide Band 1, Nicole Luzar & Volker Roth, ISBN 3-00-016204-6
- Rother Guidebook: Rätikon, Günther Flaig, ISBN 3-7633-1098-3
- SAC Guidebook, Bündner Alpen 7 Rätikon, Paul Meinherz, ISBN 978-3859020993
- Kletterführer Rätikon, Mario Luginbühl, ISBN 978-3-926807-38-0
To order SAC Maps: www.toposhop.ch
To order SAC Guidebook: www.sac-cas.ch
To order the Topoguide: www.topoguide.de
To order the Rother guidebook: www.rother.de
To order the Kletterführer Rätikon: www.panico.de
External LinksSchesaplana Hütte SAC - 1908 m
Phone (hut): +41 (0)81 3251163
Kletterhütte Pardutz KCR - 1732 m
Phone: +41 (0)78 6604316
Other useful links:
WSL Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research SLF
Railroad information Switzerland
Bus information Switzerland