Gartnerkofel North-West Ridge

Rating The Route By Hiking Standards

0. General. From 1530 m (Nassfeld Pass / Passo Pramolo) or 1625 m (Watschiger Alm) to 2195 m, exposition W and NW. Good path to Kuehwegertoerl, 1914 m, on the ridge a very steep path, scramble and easy climb (UIAA I). All the time marked. Gear: good shoes, poles, for less experienced a short rope for belaying (otherwise normally not needed). Very nice, short easy climb.

1. Effort. 600 m of altitude, 2 hours, 1 h 15 min for the climb only.

2. Power. 2 - easy (steep steps, some pulling with hands).

3. Psyche. 3 - medium. Exposed, steep places, crumbly.

4. Orientation. 1 - no difficulties (well marked).

Getting There

From Nassfeld Pass / Passo Pramolo drive up to Watschiger Alm, 1625 m. Then walk up by path No. 410 on Kuehweger Toerl, 1914 m. 45 minutes till there.

Route Description

On the exposed traverse

The upper section

The route over Gartnerkofel NW ridge was first done by Josef Uiberlacher and friends in 20s of the previous century.

From the notch, you ascend first by a steep path through pine bushes. Soon you reach steep rocks, where the first easy climbing of UIAA I is needed. It is short, quite easy, soon you reach the NW ridge, where the route flattens a bit.

Over nice grassy ridge, you continue towards the summit. This part is only a walk-up, only some care is needed if grass is wet or conditions are otherwise bad. Over a few ridge bumps you approach the final ridge towers.

From behind, the summit cross is already peeking. Here the route attacks a not so steep open rocky face, you climb up easily, difficulties nowhere exceed UIAA I degree. On the upper part of this face a short passage is more exposed, here some care is needed. Soon you reach the top of the first ridge summit.

Then you descend a little and climb up the next ridge tower. After the last climbing part a metal box (where you can subscribe) reminds you, that the climb is over. So you are soon on the fore-summit, another short descent and by the normal, broad path you have only a few meters to the big cross on the summit.

You descend by the normal approach towards the South and from the saddle in a SW direction to the upper station of Gartnerkofel chair-lift. 1 h for a descent on Watschiger Alm.