Glacier Peak Climber's Log
[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
|osatrik||Frostbite Ridge - 3rd try is the charm |
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 1999
Bailed one year at the Rabbit Ears due to party inexperience.
Bailed another year in the crater when a climber was injured (crampon gash) dropping into the crater, just as I was enjoying the steep ice on the other side of the crater -- so near and yet so far.
Four OSAT climbers, Dick W, Bill L, Jenny G and I, finally did the route in 1999, but summit conditions were foggy and we actually pulled out our compasses to get to the right quadrant of the crater on the way out.
|Posted Sep 2, 2006 3:51 pm|
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2006
|What a great place to climb! Great party (Bob and Ty), solitude, strenuous approach, great weather, nice glaciers. The summit was calm, the view fantastic.|
|Posted Aug 21, 2006 8:51 pm|
|RandyS||Gerdine/Cool Glacier |
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006
| The route description on this site is excellent and it saved us a lot of time on the approach. Upper Foam Basin is a little difficult to negotiate and find the easiest traverse route from above, but the photo on this site taken from the other direction shows it quite well.|
The temperatures on the trip were brutal - in the 90's with no wind. On our 4 day trip, we made first camp at White Pass; our intended high camp the second day was Glacier Gap but the heat and exhaustion from the first day got us only to 6700' in the moraine of the former White Chuck Glacier. The only remaining portion of the glacier is the high, southeast portion.
We got a 3 a.m. start on the third day from our high camp but with no moon, high overcast and almost total darkness, negotiating the upper moraine was slow. Once above Glacier Gap, the route was straight-forward.
The Gerdine Glacier was fairly gentle with no crevasses in the upper portion. We stayed just below a rockfall field off of Disappointment Peak and then negotiated a 100 ft section of blue ice where the Gerdine met the Cool Glacier. From there, we stayed close to Disappointment Peak to the col and then easy scree/ash and a final steep snow gully to the summit. 8 hours from high camp and 4 hours down. Return to car from high camp was 8 hours on the last day.
My suggestion for this route is to make it as early as possible to ensure snow travel where the White Chuck Glacier used to be.
|Posted Jul 24, 2006 5:21 pm|
|Snidely Whiplash||Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier |
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 1985
|A really beautiful mountain in a beautiful setting. My favorite of all of the volcanoes.|
|Posted Feb 23, 2006 4:27 pm|
|mandrake||Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2003|
|Bit cloudy and cold down below, but weather improved remarkably. Clear and tremendous views off of the summit.|
|Posted Oct 31, 2005 7:40 pm|
|Norman||Route Climbed: White Chuck/Gerdine/Cool Glacier Date Climbed: September 5-7, 2005|
|Fantastic mountain to climb! Remote area with few people. Perfect weather for climbing friend Nick and myself. Took three days, no one else on the mountain on summit day. It is about 30 miles round trip via N Fork Saulk trail.|
|Posted Sep 9, 2005 10:46 am|
|dicey||Route Climbed: Frostbite ridge, Kennedy glacier Date Climbed: July 2001, 2002|
|Haven't made the tipy top on either attempt...argh!|
|Posted Sep 4, 2005 2:47 pm|
|cgclimber||Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: July 04, 2000|
|Came back for seconds.|
|Posted Jul 22, 2005 4:59 pm|
|cgclimber||Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: July 06, 1999|
|My first time on a glacier.|
|Posted Jul 22, 2005 4:57 pm|
|Scott Dusek||Route Climbed: Sitkum Date Climbed: June 21st 2000|
|Dad and I took the plunge. Stayed on top, beautifull night.|
|Posted May 30, 2005 9:17 pm|
|Aaron Dyer||Route Climbed: Frostbit Ridge Date Climbed: July 2003|
|Weather turned us back two days in a row|
|Posted Mar 23, 2005 11:16 pm|
|cgailey||Route Climbed: Sitkum Date Climbed: July 2001|
|What an incredible mountain. To emphasize how attractive it is, a friend of mine and I from Anchorage both flew down to climb it. And to think that we don't have enough mountains to climb in AK!|
This route is very tame...just a long arduous hike. Well worth the effort and I would do it again in an instant. Unfortunately, our trip was cut short (we planned to hike out via the PCT heading north after the summit) by bad weather, but the time spent at Boulder Basin was most excellent. Mac and Cheese at the summit was nice as well!
|Posted Aug 29, 2004 12:58 am|
|Derek Franzen||Route Climbed: White Chuck Glacier / Disapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 14/15/16 1978|
|With Ann & Ken Winkes, Barb Richey and other SAC member, Tad. Long hike in to Glacier 1st day. Climbed up White Mountain on way in, great place for photos. Next day up Glacier to Cleaver, climbed directly up Cleaver and then on to summit. Fairly high winds at summit, did not hang around too long. Back to camp, good glissade down alongside Cleaver. White Chuck glacier seemed quite flat on way down. After leaving glacier members seperated somewhat on way to camp. Tad didn't show up at camp and after 1/2 hour we went searching for him. Tad was sound asleep on a boulder near the terminus of the glacier, we coaxed him back to camp before dark. Another long hike out the next day. Not too many flies, good weather.|
|Posted Aug 16, 2004 10:48 am|
|esugi||Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: August 24, 2003|
|Absolutely beautiful day as can be seen from my photo submissions. |
This is my second summit of G.P. After the first time, I vowed never to return again (the 10 mile approach in one day with BIG flies eating me up was not a very pleasant experience!) 3 years later, I was back again, this time the same 10 mile approach but NO flies.
Our 3 man rope team left boulder basin at 2:15 am and summitted at 8 am. The view from the summit of this mountain is one of the best!
|Posted Mar 1, 2004 12:54 pm|
|jverschuyl||Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: September 17, 2000|
|Beautiful fall day. We topped out of the clouds about 1000 feet above our camp in Boulder basin. The middle of the Sitkum glacier was icy but for the rest we did not need crampons.|
|Posted Oct 24, 2003 10:04 am|
|iandoten||Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: July 12 2003|
|Clear and cool on the way up, clouds moved in while on top but good views while they lasted. Approach is not as bad as it is hyped up to be but is definitely long (and quite steep at the end).|
|Posted Oct 1, 2003 6:30 pm|
|schitthaedt||Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: September 21, 2003|
|Route was mostly bare ice, except for frozen remnants of recent snowfall near the summit. Crampons were absolutely necessary. I climbed via the standard ridge and traversed around the south side of the summit spires. Lots of ice chunks were showering off of the southern faces of the summit spires, and the final chute was ice turning into ice crust over powder, a little steep with some exposure. Descended northwest side of the west summit spire, which felt shorter, a little less exposed, and was free of icefall, but was steep and required crossing the bergshrund of the Scimitar Glacier.|
|Posted Sep 22, 2003 1:05 pm|
|Paul Morgan||Route Climbed: Disappoinment Peak Route Date Climbed: August 4, 2003|
|Two important things to know about this route - first, the White Chuck Glacier does not look anything like it appears on the maps. It has receeded substantially. Don't be fooled into going up the visible portion of the glacier, the proper route continues north, then climbs thru a narrow rocky gully to glacier gap. Second, the access to the Cool Glacier from Geraldine Glacier was difficult. Expect to climb over and through ice blocks. We didn't attempt this because we were not prepared.|
Final note - observed a coyote on the upper Coll Glacier - don't know who was more surprised, him or us.
|Posted Aug 7, 2003 5:08 pm|
|lkrancus||Route Climbed: Sitkum Ridge Date Climbed: July 6, 2003|
|Took a variation of Sitkum Ridge. Instead of following the lousy rocky ridge, we shot straight for the summit from the upper Sitkum Glacier. A bit steeper, but a bit funner. Also managed to find some 60+ degree hard snow on the north side of the summit. What a finish! Had the route to ourselves!|
|Posted Jul 15, 2003 9:09 pm|
|igneousio||Route Climbed: Frostbite Ridge Date Climbed: July 6 2003|
|What a huge mountain! We hiked to Kennedy Hot Springs at 3300 ft. day 1. Though the net gain is only 1000 feet , there is probably 500 feet of up/down. Day 2 took us up the PCT to the climbers trail and up to our camp on (I guess) Kennedy ridge, around 6,600 feet. The weather was somewhat wet with the mountain socked in. Day 3 we arose to clear, warm weather! We started out at 5 a.m., parted the Rabbit Ears at 10:00, and stood on the summit just before noon. Most of the route was good cramponing snow. We set a few pickets in three places 1) right below ears on the way up, 2) after the notch on the other side of the ears, and 3) on the steep ramp right below the summit slope. This is a great route. Max snow angle was probably 50 degrees. No open crevasses, though my leg plunged into a hole that will be a small crevasse soon, right after the ears. No significant ice, but there is a small bergshrund trying to open on the final summit slope that actually held a screw pretty well. I would want some wands or at least steady GPS points in case of poor visibility though. The route winds around and goes up and down. In the few clouds we got on descent, it does get a little confusing. We used a GPS, and it was helpful on the way down. It took 5 hours to get down to camp. Day 4 we hiked the 10 miles out - 2.5 hours to KHS, then 2.5 hours to Trailhead. I'm glad we took 4 days to do this - it's a very enjoyable area and route if you don't have to take a beating as a beast of burden packing all that stuff for miles and miles.|
|Posted Jul 9, 2003 10:13 am|