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Gloedis
Mountain/Rock

Gloedis

 
Gloedis

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: East Tirol, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.96167°N / 12.72583°E

Object Title: Gloedis

Activities: Hiking, Scrambling, Via Ferrata

Season: Summer, Fall

Elevation: 10518 ft / 3206 m

 

Page By: Amsti

Created/Edited: Jul 18, 2009 / Jul 19, 2009

Object ID: 530774

Hits: 2608 

Page Score: 76.48%  - 7 Votes 

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Overview

Gloedis is one of the most beautiful mountains of the Hohe Tauern. It is also known as Matterhorn of the Schobergruppe because of its prominent look, but of course is not as famous. However it is relatively easy accessible which makes it an ideal target for those who like higher mountains but do not necessarily feel good in climbing. Actually there is a bit of climbing in final 200 meters, but this part is very well secured with iron rope and pegs (klettersteig/ferrata) and difficulties don't exceed grade B with perhaps one place C (on Austrian A-E scale). Moreover in summertime there is usually very little or no snow left. The whole path to the beginning of klettersteig is very well marked.

The starting point is parking Seichenbrunn (1673 m) in Debanttal. From there the road (closed for public traffic)leads to Lienzer Huette (1977 m). Subsequently one should follow Franz Keil Weg up to the place where signposts are located. Franz Keil Weg (914) turns left leading to Leibnitztoerl and further to Hochschober Huette (one can also try reach Hochschober from south east), our path (912) turns right crossing the little stream and goes along it. Next we reach the place where our path bifurcates once again: left branch goes to Kalser Toerl (2809 m between Gloedis and Ralfkopf), while right leads us directly to Gloedis. This spot is easy to notice, there are 2 red arrows painted on the rocks. The path becomes more arduous, but we gradually gain altitude. Eventually we find ourselves at south-east ridge. Here the klettersteig/ferrata begins. It goes along the ridge, thus making the route more interesting. The whole ascent takes some 5 hours (4 hours from Lienzer Huette)

Descent as ascent. 3-4 hours.

According to Richard Goedeke Gloedis was summited for the first time on July 13th 1871 by J. Poeschl and 2 guides. In his book "3000er in den Nordalpen" he describes the "old" normal route rated PD-. Instead of going along the south-east ridge it traverses the east face.

I don't have any information about harder climbs.

Getting There

For general orientation see the parent page: Schober GROUP .

The majority of people arrive to Lienz and then drive to parking Seichenbrunn. If you drive from north (Heiligenblut), turn right just after passing Iselberg. You can also walk from Lienz, but it takes more than 5 hours.

Lienzer Huette is accessible from other huts: Hochschober Huette, Elbelfelder Huette, Wangenitzsee Huette and Adolf Noßberger Huette.


Helpful maps:

1. Kompass, No. 48: Lienz-Schobergruppe - NP Hohe Tauern. 1:50000.
2. Freytag & Berndt. No. 181: Kals, Heiligenblut, Matrei 1:50000.
3. Alpenvereinskarte Schobergruppe 1:25000 Blatt Nr. 41

Red Tape

No limitations. But remember you are in National Park Hohe Tauern.

Camping

Lienzer Huette is the best place to stay overnight. However you may prefer find accomodation somewhere else if you are able to start your trip early. Near Lienz there are a lot of guesthouses offering reasonable-priced rooms. And you will find a couple of good campings, too.

External Links

LIENZER HUETTE Information about getting there, summits, possible hikes and bike tours. Great photos. Only in German, but one can use online translator.

WEBCAM Shows current mountain conditions.

WEATHER FORECAST

Some remarks about safety

The klettesteig was built in 2006 and since then has been considerd as normal way. Please take into account that this is a high alpine route which requires some preparations. Go only if the weather is stable and if you are in a good shape. The ridge will become very dangerous during thunderstorm, because safety devices have continous character. Protect your skin from the sun (this is important due to south orientation of this route). What is more important, use complete ferrata set for self-protection. Even this klettersteig/ferrata is relatively easy, remember that it is quite narrow and airy in some places. Moreover you will probably meet people during both ascent and descent so there is no need for unnecessary risk when you have to pass someone. If you suspect that the ridge is icy, take crampons with you.

Images