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Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow
Route

Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow

 
Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.61440°N / 118.8036°W

Object Title: Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: 5.10a/b

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Dave Daly

Created/Edited: Apr 12, 2003 / Apr 15, 2003

Object ID: 157952

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Approach


As described in the 'Getting There' section, the western outcrop of Little Baldy apprears once the trail opens up. Upon arrival, look straight up above the pedistal outcropping. The steep face above, with the obvious bolt line, is 'Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow'.

Route Description


Pitch #1 - (5.10a/b) - No need for direction here. The line of bolts (10 in all!) ascends the steep face above on small edges and shallow friction dishes. Midway up the bolt line, cross over a small ledge (6") and mantle up onto it (balancy 5.9 but well protected). Continue heading up the face using small crimps along the way (the crux is in between the 5th and 6th bolt). The pitch finishes at a two bolt chained belay (150'). Some people prefer doing just this pitch and rapping off (two ropes required).

Pitch #2 - (5.9) - Start by veering slightly left and up (3 bolts) to an alcove before a small roof. Once at the alcove, head straight up to a cleft in the roof and surmount an awkward groove (5.8, #1 Camelot). Once above the roof, the route follows two more bolts before ending at a two bolt belay (one bolt has a rap ring).

Pitch #3 - (5.7R) - This pitch runs out on 5.7ish terrain. Only 3 bolts cover the overall length of the pitch (140'). The granite is fairly clean and the bountiful foot and hand holds will keep your head cool while pressing onward and straight up. Arrive at a two bolt belay.

Pitch #4 (5.6R/X) - Pass a small overlap 10 feet above the belay (no pro) and press onward as the terrain eases up to low end 5th class and eventually 4th class (200') to the summit. The hardest it gets is 5.6

Essential Gear


Two 60m ropes (for possible rappels), draws (10 max.... duh!) and a small rack covering pro to 1" (Aliens and Camelot Jr's helpful).

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

The first pitch is the best...