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Hegar

 
Hegar

Page Type: Route

Location: Norway, Europe

Lat/Lon: 59.26276°N / 8.39950°E

Object Title: Hegar

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.10b (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 9

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: McCannster

Created/Edited: Aug 21, 2017 / Aug 22, 2017

Object ID: 1005445

Hits: 95 

Page Score: 75.81%  - 6 Votes 

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Overview

If you are looking at the expansive south face of Hægefjell from the parking lot, you'll notice two prominent dihedral systems on the left side of the wall. Hegar climbs the left of these two dihedrals. The climb features varied climbing on high quality rock in an amazing setting. Just don't do it when it's wet!

Getting There

To find the start of the route, look for a low angle, left facing dihedral that starts up from the ground, within the area in between Hegar and the route 'Mot Sula' (the prominent dihedral system to the right of Hegar). This is NOT where the route begins. Begin on easy slabs about 100 meters to the left and down from the aforementioned dihedral. 

Route Description

Pitches 1 - 3: We soloed these pitches. Climb 3rd class slabs that slowly turn into easy fifth class rock in a low angle, right facing corner. When the cliff begins to steepen more, look for a broken ledge beneath some flakes. 150 meters, 5.5.

Looking down pitch 4
Looking down pitch 4


Pitch 4: Climb moderate flakes up the ever steepening wall, to a single, somewhat runout V1 slab boulder problem. Scamper up and left to a large ledge at the base of the main dihedral of Hegar. 55 meters, 5.10a. 

Pitch 5: Follow the corner straight up with fun, engaging climbing and decent gear towards a small tree. Place a piece high and negotiate a short traverse right under the tree and work your way up a short arete to some spacious ledges beneath the business. 50 meters, 5.9. 

Pitch 5
Pitch 5 (wet conditions)


Pitch 6: Quality climbing. Ascend the clean right facing corner. The crux comes about half way up, with a short section of insecure finger locks. Belay on easy terrain above the upper bulge. 50 meters, 5.10b. 


Pitch 7: Continue up the obvious crack, easy at first, that steepens to an offwidth. Belay on easy terrain above the offwidth. Alternatively, climb the finger crack on the left side of the ramp. 50 meters, 5.9.

Pitch 7
Pitch 7


Pitch 8: Move the belay further up to the left to the base of another wide crack that steepens at a right facing corner. This is the last difficult pitch of the route, and climbs a lot better than it looks. 40 meters, 5.8.

Pitch 9: We soloed this pitch. Follow the path of least resistance over a couple easy fifth class steps to the top. Continue walking up another 10 minutes to the summit of Hægefjell. 60 meters, 5.5.

There is not a single bolt nor fixed anchor on this route. Descent is via the hiking trail (5,5 km one way). Retreat from anywhere on the route would
involve leaving some gear.

Essential Gear

2x set of cams from finger size to Black Diamond blue #3 (or equivalent)
1x Black Diamond grey #4 (or equivalent)
1x Black Diamond purple #5 (optional for offwidth on pitch 7). 
1x full set stoppers
Cord or double length slings for anchors
60 meter rope

External Links

Find a topo for this route and others at this crag here (in Norwegian).

Images

Base of the routePitch 5Final bulge on pitch 6Pitch 7Looking down pitch 4