Via Lara

Overview

This is by far the most popular route on Hægefjell, and one of the most popular multi-pitch trad lines in Norway.  It's position and ease of climbing are the reasons.

Getting There

Follow the main page description to get to Hægefjell.  Once parked, there is a well-worn path that leads to Hægefjell.  The only thing you need to know is that you need to head to the right of the formation, and stay on the biggest path.  It gets a little wierd the first time as one ascends grassy tree covered ledges while contouring around.  There are actually 2 pitches BELOW the start of the climb that a stubborn climber could do if so desired.  But basically, stay scrambling up on the biggest path\ledge until it finally vanishes.

Route Description

From the end of the ledge:

P1: The main crack is to the right of the ledge, the first pitch is slabby, but not always well protected.  Diagonal right toward the large crack system.  Via Lara is not one single clean crack, but a series of parallel fractures, offering up a huge amount of holds and small variations.  Belay once you are directly below this system.  The first pitch belay takes only large gear (Camalot #3 and #4.

P2 and P3:  Scamper up the amazing crack, past some glacier polish.  These are full 60 meter pitches.  It's easy to set up a belay almost anywhere, as the cracks are routinely interspersed with comfortable ledges.

P4: Could be the crux of the route.  The route steepens considerably, but the holds and cracks are still plentiful.  There is a chimmney\crack that heads right from here, you don't want to go there, it's an often wet and difficult 5.9 pitch.  Stay gradual left in the main easy cracks.

P5-P7: After the steeper P4, the dome starts to ease back more, the crack continues up 2 or 3 more pitches before the shoulder rounds out, and the crack system finally ends.  Some 4th and eventually 3rd class slab hauling ensues before reaching the summit.

Essential Gear

While this route has been cleaned by the hordes, there is the occasional loose rock, or some noob above you dropping gear, so helmets.

Single 60m rope is Ok, though retreat is all on gear, there are no bail rappel anchors in situ.

Rack: Single set of stoppers, couple extra medium and large, Single set of cams.  Minimum of 2 #3 Camalot or equivelent.

Slings and biners for all trad anchors.

Shoes for the long walk-off.  The walk off encircles the formation, and takes about 1.5 hours.

External Links