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Holmbukttinden

 
Holmbukttinden

Page Type: Route

Lat/Lon: 69.47032°N / 19.79668°E

Object Title: Holmbukttinden

Route Type: Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Winter

Time Required: A long day

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: darinchadwick

Created/Edited: Jun 24, 2010 / Jul 16, 2013

Object ID: 631949

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Overview

Holmbukttind
Holmbukttind right of center. The traverse to Jiehkkevarri continues to the left.
 
Jiehkkevarri (L) and Holmbukttinden (R) from the ascent of Kveita
 
At over 1600 meters, Holmbukttinden is a great mountain by itself. It's the 7th highest mountain in Lyngen and has a great summit as well as a great ski descent route. But as it's the easiest route to Jiehkkevarri, it is usually viewed as a stepping stone to greater summits. Many parties have summited Holmbukttinden, looked over at Jiehkkevarri, and been satisfied to have come so far, and turned around.

Getting There

From Tromsø: Head out of town on E8, the main highway. Drive past Ramfjord, through Lavangdalen, and out to a Balsfjord. After driving along the shoreline of Balsford for less than 10 minutes there is a sign for Jøvik in a little bay called Laksvatnbukta. There is a Mobile Bunker Oil gas station (unmanned) here, that's the easiest way to know where to turn off. Follow this road past Lakselvsbukt, a small village with a school and church directly below Lakselvstind (A big multisummited peak).

Drive a few kilometers further, to coordinates N: 69.46948 E: 19.69855 This is at a small river called Govelva. There are places to park on both sides of the road, and both sides of the river. Most popular is a short wood cutters track which makes the first few minutes easier. The terrain is fairly flat and open at the start so it isn't so important. Blåisen (glacier) should be visible from the road, that's a sure sign you have begun in the correct valley.

Driving time is about 1:20 from Tromsø.

Route Description

 
Storfjord and mainland peaks from Holmbukttinden start
 

From the parking area, follow up the valley toward the Blue Ice Glacier (Blåisen) which is almost visible from the road. Keep the river to your right as you ascend.  
Ascending Holmbukttinden.
 
Past treeline, it is simple to follow up the talus to the base of a well definded lateral moraine.  
Blue Ice Glacier (Blåisen) on Jeihkkevarri
 
Just before reaching this moraine, turn left up a steep valley below the cliffs of Holmbukttinden.



 
Beginning ascent of Holmbukttinden
 
Follow this valley up to a smaller, flatter, almost hanging valley.  
Upper valley of Holmbukttinden
 
This is a good place to stop for water as it is the last area with reliable meltwater flowing over exposed rocks from about late April and onwards.
 
Ascending the upper valley of Holmbukttinden
 




Continue up the valley, which curves to the right, and head for the lowest point to reach the col. This can be tiring with skins on skis, but is usually doable without having to boot pack. In late season however, many parties opt for boot packing with ice axes, and in very late season crampons.



 
Reaching the Pass ascending Holmbukttinden.
 
 
Kveita is  right of center, Jeihkkevarri is off pic to the right.
 
 
Summit ridge of Holmbukttinden
 

After reaching the col, make a sharp right turn to follow the ridgeline to the summit of Holmbukttind. The ridge becomes more defined as the summit nears, and, depending on conditions, can be exposed before reaching the summit. Some are tempted to drop off the left hand side of the ridge to traverse over to Jiehkkevare, but it really is easier to just continue on to the summit and descend from there.
 
Jiekkevarri from Holmbukttinden traverse
 
 
Climbing out of the Col: Traverse from Holmbukttinden to Jeihkkevarri
 
 
The Col on Holmbukttinden-Jeihkkevarri traverse.
 




After summiting, descend the east ridge toward the col. Skirt around the edge of the glacier, keeping to the left of the ridge crest until reaching the col. From the col, a short but steep ascent gains the plateau. Gradually ascend along the plateau for 4 kilometers or so until finally reaching the final hump that is the summit of Jiehkkevari. There are some high points that can be skirted to the right on the ascent, or they can simply be skied over without any difficulties.

Return via the same route, or, better, continue on to Kvieta and descend either Fornesbreen or Fugledalsbreen.

Essential Gear

Avalanche rescue equimpent.
Randonee or Telemark skis and skins.
If continuing on to Jeihkkevarri, glacier travel equimpent: ice axe, ropes, ascenders, may be neccessary depending on conditions.

External Links

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